Just across the road from Xocomil and Xetulul Amusement Parks are the lodgings created specifically to house visitors. The Hostales del IRTRA (tel. 2423-9100, www.irtra.org.gt) encompass a virtual leisure city with various lodges, restaurants, bars, swimming pools, and a minigolf course. There are four separate lodging concepts ranging in price from $40 a night in the simplest accommodations without air-conditioning to $300 a night for a suite.

The newest of the four hostales, Palajunoj, was inspired by the cultures inhabiting the world’s tropical rainforests and is the popular favorite with guests. The five buildings in this complex each have a different theme: African, Polynesian, Thai, Indonesian, and Mayan. All rooms have air-conditioning, cable TV, private bathroom, and wonderful wooden furnishings. The buildings housing the rooms at Palajunoj are worth a look for their unique architecture. The hostales outside this complex feature Spanish Colonial, Greek, and rustic cabana architecture.

There are three restaurants, the nicest of which is Restaurante Kapa Hapa, inspired by the cultures of Asia and the Pacific. A beautifully luminescent Polynesian sailboat graces the entrance as you make your way up the stairs to the second-floor dining room. Try the chicken satay and wash it down with a Mai Tai. Main dishes cost $7–12. Outdoor seating overlooking the Moana swimming pools is also available and is a great place for breakfast, which includes a delicious menu of croissant sandwiches or lighter fare such as yogurt and pancakes.

Any bus traveling along the Quetzaltenango–Retalhuleu road can drop you off here.