Tourist Taxis

Cubataxi operates radio-dispatched turistaxis, also found outside tourist hotels nationwide, and at piqueras (taxi stands) around the main squares. Few taxi drivers use their meters. Taxistas have their own trampas or estafas (swindles), such as resetting the meter to record a much lower mileage, then charging you the going rate for the journey. Since the dispatcher records the destination, the taxi driver splits the excess with the dispatcher.

In tourist venues, modern Japanese or European cars are used. Beyond tourist areas, Cubataxi’s vehicles are usually beat-up Ladas. You put your life at risk in these vehicles, almost none of which have seatbelts. (They’re so clapped out; Cuba is the only place in the world I’ve had to push my own cab to the airport!)

Peso Taxis

Havana and most provincial capitals have peso taxis serving locals and charging in pesos. Peso-only taxis are not permitted to carry foreigners, but many drivers will run the risk of huge fines.

The workhorses are the colectivos, shared cabs that pick up anyone who flags them down (they also hang outside railway and bus terminals), often until they’re packed to the gills. Sometimes called máquinas (machines), they run along fixed routes much like buses and charge similar fares. Most are old Yankee jalopies. They usually take as many passengers as they can cram in.

In 2009, the Cuban government began issuing new licenses for the first time in a decade; the number of private taxis has since doubled.

“Gypsy” Cabs

Illegal cabs driven are usually beat-up Ladas or American jalopies; they’re inherently unsafe, and best avoided. Freelance driver-guides hang outside the largest tourist hotels and discos late at night. Your fare is negotiable. Educate yourself about turistaxi fares to your destination beforehand, as many drivers attempt to gouge you and you may end up paying more than you would in a tourist taxi. Agree on the fare before getting in. Make sure you know whether it is one-way or round-trip.

Coco-Taxis

Toys “R” Us doesn’t yet have an outlet in Cuba, but you’d never know it. These bright yellow, fiberglass motorized tricycles look like scooped-out Easter eggs on wheels. You’ll find them outside major hotels and cruising the tourist zones in major cities. They charge about the same as tourist taxis. However, they have no safety features, and several accidents involving tourists have been reported.

Bici-taxis

Bici-taxis—the Cuban equivalent of rickshaws—patrol the main streets of most Cuban cities. These tricycles have been cobbled together with welding torches, with car-like seats and shade canopies. They offer a cheap (albeit bumpy) way of sightseeing and getting around if you’re in no hurry. Some ciclo-taxis are only licensed to take Cubans (who pay pesos). Always negotiate a fare before setting off.

Coches

These horse-drawn cabs are a staple of local transport. In Havana, Varadero, and other beach resorts, elegant antique carriages with leather seats are touted for sightseeing. Elsewhere they’re a utility vehicle for the hoi polloi and are often decrepit, with basic bench seats. They operate along fixed routes and usually charge one to three pesos, depending on distance.

© Christopher P. Baker from Moon Cuba, 5th Edition