Two kilometers east of Ensenada, where international Ruta 225 continues to Petrohué, another paved road follows the Río Petrohué southeast for 30 kilometers, where it forks as the river enters the Estuario de Reloncaví. While the right fork heads south to Canutillar, the graveled left fork crosses the bridge over the Petrohué and continues to Ralún, where another gravel road forks north to Cayutué, on the south arm of Lago Todos los Santos.

The main road, though, continues another 15 kilometers to Cochamó, where the 2,111-meter Volcán Yates, at the south end of the Estuario, provides a backdrop for the shingled Iglesia Parroquial María Inmaculada and its soaring steeple.

The area’s big attraction, though, is the yet untamed grandeur of the upper Río Cochamó, where ribbon-like waterfalls tumble over granite domes that rise above the luxuriant rainforest. Still, only small numbers of hikers, dedicated technical climbers, and horseback riders challenge the muddy trail, part of which follows a 19th-century log road that crossed the Andes to Argentina, to the scenic valley of La Junta and beyond.

From the Río Cochamó’s outlet, the gravel road continues south over a new bridge across the Río Puelo and then joins Ruta 7, the Carretera Austral, to Caleta Puelche. Here it’s possible to double back north toward Puerto Montt via the ferry shuttle to Caleta La Arena, or continue south to Hornopirén, the vehicle ferry port for southbound travelers.

Accommodations and Food

Cochamó proper has well-heated Residencial Edicar (tel. 065/216526, US$11 pp with breakfast), which has good views over the estuary.

Both horseback-tour clients and nonriders overnight (US$44 pp with half board) at the three tasteful cabañas at Campo Aventura Eco-Lodge, five kilometers south of Cochamó proper and 500 meters east of the Puelo road, on the south side of the bridge over the Río Cochamó. Breakfast costs an additional US$5; seafood and vegetarian lunches and dinners are available at its restaurant, La Mesa de los Sabores.

Open mid-September–mid-May, Campo Aventura has equally stylish if simpler dormitory accommodations at La Junta, with wood-fired hot showers and a campground as well. Meals, wine, and fresh bread are available, but it’s best to make advance meals arrangements at the eco-lodge.

Getting There

From Puerto Montt, Buses Fierro (tel. 065/253022) goes to Cochamó (US$4.50) two or three times daily via Puerto Varas; Buses Río Puelo has also commenced service on this route. Confirm schedules at Campo Aventura’s Varas office, which is near the bus stop and can also arrange transfers by private vehicle or even kayak (even for nonkayakers).