As the name suggests, Hotel Central (Av. Central near Calle Central Nte., tel. 919/673-0024, US$20 s, US$25 d) is centrally located—in fact, it faces the central plaza. Rooms are small and simple but all have private bathroom, cable TV, and wireless Internet. Some 2nd-floor rooms open onto a wide veranda that overlooks the plaza, which is great for people-watching if you don’t mind the early-morning hubbub.

Just around the corner, Hospedaje y Restaurant Esmeralda (Calle Central Nte. near Av. Central, tel. 919/673-0014, US$14 s with shared bathroom, US$23 d with shared bathroom, US$22 s, US$28 d) offers five large rooms in a remodeled historic home. Accommodations are a little run-down but colorful Chiapanecan bedspreads, lots of plants, and friendly service make up for it. The heart of the hotel is clearly in the common areas, which include a breezy terrace and a homey restaurant and bar. In the latter, you’ll find loads of traveler information and a decent book exchange too.

Hotel Margarita (Calle Central Nte. near 2a Av. Nte. Pte., tel. 919/673-0280, hotel margarita [at] prodigy [dot] net [dot] mx, US$25 s, US$30 d, US$50 s/d with a/c) offers ample rooms with two queen beds, cable TV, and wireless Internet. They lack charm, but if you’re lucky you may get one with views of the surrounding hills. Better yet, ask to see a few before committing.