The charming settlement of Velha Boipeba, whose epicenter is the 17th- century Igreja do Divino Espírito Santo, offers both simple and more sophisticated accommodations for visitors, as does Moreré, a tiny fishing village an hour away. One of the nicest options in Velha Boipeba is the inviting
Pousada Santa Clara (tel. 75/3653-6085, www.santaclaraboipeba.com, R$100–150 d). Owned by two American brothers, it offers 11 bright, minimalist rooms set amidst a lush tropical garden. One of the brothers, Mark, is the culinary genius behind the enticing Restaurante Santa Clara. He plans each day’s dinner options based on the fresh catch (lobster, shrimp, fish) available and his internationally inspired creative urges.

The spell cast by the Pousada Vila Sereia (tel. 75/3653-6045, www.amabo.org.br/br/vilasereia.html, R$190–250) is conducive to romance. Its four private, yet roomy palm-thatched bungalows, situated right on Boca da Barra beach, make for an idyllic getaway. The attentive service includes breakfasts served on your balcony—manioc couscous with coconut milk, homemade jams, and fresh fruits.

Although Boipeba is already pretty remote, for complete isolation, nothing beats staying on your own island with a private beach. This is what’s in store for guests of the Pousada Maliale (tel. 75/3653-6134, www.pousadamaliale.com.br, R$130–180, closed in May). Its 16 spacious and well-equipped rooms are located on São Miguel, a small island in the middle of the Rio do Inferno, a mere five-minute boat ride from Boca da Barra beach.

Cheaper and more basic pousadas are located in Moreré, as is the Restaurante Mar e Coco (tel. 75/3653-6013, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, call in advance in off-season), which is famed for menu items such as succulent shrimp moquecas served with banana-da-terra and baked lobster with pesto, as well as for its inviting hammocks, where you can indulge in a post-luncheon siesta.