Beyond Bajo Caracoles, rugged RN 40 traverses the northern steppe until the point where, over millions of years, the Río Pinturas has cut a deep, scenic canyon. In the process, erosion has left countless aleros, stony overhangs often mistakenly called cuevas (caves). One of these is the Cueva de las Manos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where stencils of hundreds of human hands, guanacos, and abstract forms cover the walls in orange, red, and yellow ochres.

Dating from around 7370 B.C., the oldest paintings represent hunter-gatherers from immediate post-glacial times, but the more abstract designs, which are fewer, are more recent. Oddly enough, nearly all the hands from which the site takes its name are left hands.

Along with Parque Nacional Perito Moreno, this is one of the finest detours off RN 40, with two main access points. From Bajo Caracoles in the south, gravel RP 41 goes directly to the site, where the municipality of Perito Moreno operates a small confitería and a rocky campground (US$1 per tent), and charges US$1.50 admission to the caves. Bars now block close access to the paintings, to discourage vandalism (even repeatedly touching the paintings could damage them), but do not obscure the view.

Another access point is the Pinturas drainage itself, with two separate approaches (both of which also offer accommodations). From Estancia Casa de Piedra (tel. 02963/432199 in Perito Moreno), 45 kilometers north of Bajo Caracoles, there’s a 12-kilometer access road, at whose end it’s a three-kilometer hike to the paintings; from Estancia los Toldos, another 23 kilometers north and seven kilometers east, another 15-kilometer access road permits a close approach. By either the northern or southern route, mountain bikers can avoid backtracking to RN 40 by hauling their bikes over the river (there’s a footbridge) and out the other direction.

On the east side of RN 40, ideal for cyclists, the bucolic Estancia Casa de Piedra (tel. 02963/432199) allows camping for $1.25 per tent, plus US$1 for showers; it also rents basic but passable rooms for US$5.50/9 s/d with shared bath. It’s not always dependably staffed, however.

At Estancia Los Toldos, Hostería Cueva de las Manos (tel. 011/4901-0436, fax 011/4903-7161, cuevadelasmanos [at] hotmail [dot] com or cdelasmanos [at] fibertel [dot] com [dot] ar) has four modern carpeted rooms with private bath (US$65/75 s/d with breakfast) with breakfast, plus very fine hostel accommodations (US$16 pp without breakfast). Restaurant lunches and dinners cost about US$15, afternoon tea US$7. It’s open November–March, and sometimes for Semana Santa. They will also arrange transfers from the town of Perito Moreno (US$25 one way for a minimum two passengers) and offer excursions.