On the Río Aluminé, about 30 kilometers east of Junín via RN 234, the 15,000-hectare Anglo-Argentine Estancia Huechahue is a forested cattle ranch that doubles as a recreational getaway for serious gaucho-style riders, or those who want to become serious riders. November–April, Jane Williams’s well-trained horses carry a maximum of 12 guests at a time over the mountainous terrain into Parque Nacional Lanín or undertake a circuit of various nearby estancias.

For accompanying non-riders, or for a change of pace, there’s hiking, birding, fishing, swimming, and even tennis. Huechahue also features volcanic caves, Tehuelche rock-art sites, and wildlife that includes Andean condor nesting sites (not to mention deer and feral boar).

Most visitors arrange packages from overseas; drop-ins are not possible, but with at least a few days’ notice it may be possible to arrange a stay (three-day minimum). The basic rate of US$375 pp, in twin-bed rooms, includes full board (traditional Patagonian fare rather than the European-style cuisine of some estancias), drinks (beer, wine, and spirits), hot tub and sauna, and activities (fishing guides and massages are extra). It also includes transportation between Huechahue and San Martín de los Andes’s Aeropuerto Chapelco; transportation to or from Bariloche is possible for an additional charge. For details contact Jane Williams at Estancia Huechahue (www.huechahue.com).