Interior Chubut Province
Parque Nacional Lago Puelo
Trip Ideas
Fed by four rivers and numerous arroyos, nearly surrounded by forested peaks, turquoise Lago Puelo is the showpiece of its namesake national park. In addition to its scenery, it’s popular for camping, swimming, boating, and hiking, and offers a little-used option for crossing into Chile (unlike most Argentine lakes and streams, Lago Puelo drains toward the Pacific).
Just 15 kilometers south of El Bolsón, Lago Puelo lies across the Chubut provincial line. It encompasses 27,675 hectares of mostly mountainous forested land, except for the RÃo Azul’s lakeshore deltas in the north, and the RÃo Turbio, across the lake to the south. The lake is only 200 meters above sea level, but the summits rise above 1,500 meters.
Sports and Recreation
Several trailheads start near the Centro de Informes. The most popular is the Sendero al Mirador del Lago, to the east, which climbs 130 meters to an overlook.
To the west, the Senda Los Hitos fords the RÃo Azul and leads five kilometers to Arroyo Las Lágrimas, where through-hikers to Chile can complete Argentine border formalities. Five kilometers farther west, Chilean Carabineros finish the paperwork; from there, it’s possible to continue to the Chilean town of Puelo, with onward connections to Puerto Montt.
For most visitors, though, sailing the lake is the main attraction. The Juana de Arco (tel. 02944/493415) and Popeye 2000 carry passengers on half-hour excursions (US$7 pp) after 2:30 p.m.; they also offer 11 a.m. departures to the Chilean border (US$20 pp), with a brief paperwork stop at the Argentine border post.
Practicalities
Immediately east of the visitors center, Camping Lago Puelo (tel. 02944/499186, US$5 pp) has a small confiterÃa, and limited supplies are available.
In addition, there’s a free site at Arroyo Las Lágrimas, about five kilometers west on the footpath to the border, and other free sites at RÃo Turbio, at the lake’s south end.
Near the park entrance, where rangers collect US$1 pp for Argentine residents, US$2 pp for foreigners, the helpful Oficina de Informes (tel. 02944/499232, lagopuelo [at] apn [dot] gov [dot] ar) provides practical information on attractions and activities. It’s open 9 a.m.–7 p.m. in summer.
From El Bolsón, Transporte La Golondrina buses shuttle down Avenida San MartÃn to the park and back 16 times every weekday between 6:45 a.m. and 10:30 p.m., but they start a little later, at 7 a.m., on weekends. Return times are 30–45 minutes later.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Argentina, 2nd edition