Moon Bermuda


By Rosemary Jones

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Impossibly turquoise bays, pink sands, and hibiscus-scented breezes: go with the flow and experience a fantasy come to life with Moon Bermuda. Inside you’ll find:
  • Strategic itineraries designed for honeymooners, families, outdoor adventurers, history buffs, and more
  • Unique experiences and can’t-miss highlights: Stroll the soft sands of Elbow Beach, dive to underwater shipwrecks, and splash around in the warm waves. Spend a morning browsing Hamilton’s boutiques and historic churches, and stroll the colorful Bermuda Botanical Gardens. Spot ring-tailed lemurs, seahorses and sharks at the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo, and visit the incredible formations of Crystal Cave. Watch the sun go down over the Harrington Sound as you dine al fresco on fresh seafood and cassava fries, and relax at a beachfront bar with a rum swizzle
  • Advice on outdoor activities, from golf to watersports, including scuba diving, snorkeling, waterskiing, wakeboarding, and flyboarding
  • Honest recommendations from local Rosemary Jones on when to go, where to eat, how to get around, and where to stay, from waterfront cottages and luxurious resorts to budget hotels
  • Full-color photos and detailed maps throughout
  • Practical background on Bermuda’s landscape, culture, history, and environment
  • Handy information for families, seniors, travelers with disabilities, LGBTQ+ travelers, and visitors planning a wedding, as well as volunteer opportunities
With Moon Bermuda’s expert tips and local know-how, you can plan your trip your way.

Island-hopping around the Caribbean? Try Moon Dominican Republic,Moon Aruba, or Moon Jamaica.


frangipani flowers




Planning Your Trip

The Best of Bermuda

A Romantic Retreat



Family Vacation


Exploring the Railway Trail


Bermuda landscape.

Bermudians often refer to the “Real World” as if theirs isn’t. Perhaps it’s truer to say the island is “Another World,” as local crooner Hubert Smith and his 1960s band the Coral Islanders sang in Bermuda’s unofficial national anthem. He was right, of course—there is an ephemeral, otherworldly feel to the 21-square-mile island with its hallmark hue of confectionery pink that brands buses, hibiscus, cottages, and those legendary linen shorts.

That element of pure fantasy has drawn visitors here for centuries, and this British Overseas Territory’s charms cast just as strong a spell today. Arriving over impossibly turquoise bays, so translucent you can almost spot the parrotfish beneath the silky surface, is to experience a suspension of disbelief. The trilling tree frogs, wobbly scooter rides, perfumed breezes, and laid-back lifestyle probably won’t do much to shatter the illusion.

For Bermuda’s residents, this piece of paradise is home—a quirky combo of British, North American, West Indian, and Portuguese influences that feels alternately sophisticated and small-town. With their heritage of pioneers and pirates, islanders embody a pragmatic stoicism, jaunty pride, and wicked humor wrapped in an easy friendliness that relaxes you faster than your first rum swizzle. Bermudians go with the flow, literally: The Gulf Stream—the warm current, not the private jet, though there are plenty of those here too—has shaped their destiny.

Port Royal Golf Course

dark ’n’ stormy

humpback whales breach off Southampton

Bermuda’s allure is truly unforgettable. Mark Twain likened it to heaven. John Lennon discovered Double Fantasy here. And when you head back to that Real World, you might just wonder if it’s all been a brilliant figment of your own imagination.

ripe peaches

Admiralty House Park.

Bermuda home


1 Beaches: Bermuda’s beaches are among the world’s most stunning, offering sun, serenity, swimming, and snorkeling (click here).

2 Summer Festivals and Events: Dance at Bermuda Heroes Weekend (click here), watch the Bermuda Fitted Dinghy Races (click here), and party with locals at Cup Match (click here and click here).

3 Railway Trail: Walk, bike, or ride a horse along this historic rail trail that runs throughout the island (click here).

4 Water Sports: Bermuda’s irresistible turquoise waters invite every brand of active encounter (click here and click here).

5 Romantic Escapes: Enjoy quality couple time in the form of dreamy resorts, spa treatments, and alfresco dinners (click here).

6 Historic Forts: Explore 400 years of history through Bermuda’s chain of forts at dramatic examples such as Fort Hamilton (click here), Fort Scaur and Park (click here), and Fort St. Catherine (click here).

7 Green Spaces: From the Arboretum (click here) to the Bermuda Botanical Gardens (click here) to the Spittal Pond Nature Reserve (click here), this island offers options aplenty for verdant exploration.

8 Golfing: With the most courses per square mile in the world—including world-class championship varieties—Bermuda is the ultimate golf getaway (click here, click here, click here, and click here).

Planning Your Trip

Where to Go
City of Hamilton and Pembroke Parish

Whether you foray into “Town” for shopping, restaurants, or nightclubs, or use the capital as a base from which to explore the rest of the island, the city and its environs are a logical place to start a tour of the parishes. Hamilton currently has no hotels, but nearby neighborhoods in Pembroke have several excellent options offering access to the city and bus and ferry terminals. Attractions include art galleries, parks, cathedrals, and an 1870s fort. Harbor cruises and ferries for Paget, Warwick, Dockyard, Royal Naval Dockyard, and St. George’s leave from the waterfront, where a tour center can help you book adventures island-wide and year-round.

Devonshire and Paget Parishes

Deep country is found in Devonshire, with old estates, farmland, and seaside communities. Paget offers suburban attractions such as golf, tennis, and top-notch restaurants. Resorts and guesthouses abound in Paget, while colorful local eateries, churches, and nature reserves enhance Devonshire’s allure. Key attractions include the Arboretum, Bermuda Botanical Gardens, Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, and Elbow Beach.

church in Hamilton

Warwick and Southampton Parishes

Beach bums beware: You might never leave the pink-sand confines of these western parishes. This is the realm of scuba, water sports, horseback riding, and snorkeling, not to mention tennis, golf, and pampering spas at several major resorts. Jocks and sun-worshippers will find nirvana here. There are a few historic sites, including Gibbs Hill Lighthouse—which provides the island’s best view. Both parishes offer a plethora of gourmet and comfort food, and accommodations to suit various budgets.

Sandys Parish

The historic military gems of the fortified Royal Naval Dockyard, including the National Museum of Bermuda, are the biggest collective magnet drawing visitors to the West End. This outer parish has a quaint, countrified character that invites gentle exploration. Somerset Village and its surroundings provide rural lanes to meander, plus shops, restaurants, and water sports. Deep-sea fishing boats are also based in this parish. One major resort and several guesthouses provide accommodations, but fast ferries from Hamilton can get you (and your scooter) here in 20 minutes.

Smith’s and Hamilton Parishes

Packed with attractions, Smith’s Parish and Hamilton Parish—the latter not to be confused with the capital city—offer plenty to see, plus pretty pathways to the East End. Explore history and nature at Verdmont Museum, a historic home, before taking a hike at the 34-acre oceanfront bird sanctuary Spittal Pond Nature Reserve, both in Smith’s. Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo in Hamilton Parish is a favorite island attraction. The cave-honeycombed Harrington Sound provides a scenic route east, and several beautiful beaches—Shelly Bay Beach, John Smith’s Bay—are inviting distractions.

St. George’s Parish

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 400-year-old Town of St. George and its related forts in the East End appeal to history lovers. The parish incorporates the island’s first capital, along with the airport, the island of St. David’s, and outlying regions like Ferry Point National Park. Built by English settlers, St. George’s boasts winding streets, many landmarks, a public square, and a yacht-laden waterfront. The surrounding forts are a tribute to the island’s British military heritage, while former U.S. base lands boast an expanse of now-public beaches. Parish accommodations range from backstreet bed-and-breakfasts to a boutique Rosewood hotel.

Before You Go
High and Low Seasons

Bermuda is farther north than the Caribbean hot spots, so don’t expect perfect weather year-round. The winter season (Nov.-Mar.) has average 68°F temperatures, compared to the high 80s of midsummer. Spring (Apr.-May) and fall (Sept.-Nov.) are perhaps the most pleasant periods, especially October, as summer’s humidity falls away. In terms of rates and crowds, high season is April-October and low season is November-March. Bermuda makes a pleasant year-round destination, however, as it has no defined rainy season, nor a period when shops and restaurants are closed seasonally, as elsewhere in the Caribbean.

You may want to time your visit around cultural and sports events. Local favorites include Bermuda Heroes Weekend (a multiple-day, round-the-clock soca carnival in mid-June), Cup Match (a four-day extravaganza combining cricket, concerts, boating, and beaching in late July or early August) and Bermuda Day (a public holiday the last Friday in May, with a festive parade and half-marathon). Easter brings kites and Christmas boasts a boat parade and festival of lights. International events include the Bermuda Festival of the Performing Arts (dance, opera, theater) in January and February, and November’s World Rugby Classic.

Passports, Visas, and Vaccinations

Valid passports are required to enter Bermuda. Visitors must also show a return or departure ticket, or proof of transport off the island, and it saves time to have handy your hotel or guesthouse address for the immigration officer. No vaccinations are needed for travel to Bermuda.


Major airlines and cruise ships serve Bermuda daily from U.S. and Canadian cities, as well as from the United Kingdom. On the island, you can rent scooters or two-person electric cars, tour the parishes by bus, or hop on reliable ferries. Taxis are relatively expensive but provide service to all nine parishes.


Hotels’ best rooms can become fully booked in the high season, particularly at popular small resorts, where repeat visitors book up to a year in advance. If you’re planning scuba outings, fishing trips, or golf and spa packages, you should arrange tee times, treatments, and reservations in advance. Tickets to premier events also need to be purchased early. Check for details on

The Best of Bermuda

With its short distances and efficient public transportation, Bermuda reveals much of itself to energetic travelers during a weeklong stay. Look below the surface of this reef-fringed paradox and you’ll discover a melting pot of culture, history, and outdoor adventure encompassing all nine parishes.

Day 1

Touch down at L. F. Wade International Airport and grab a cab to your hotel. Ask the driver where to find the island’s best fish sandwich, a Bermudian staple. Shake off your mainland cobwebs with an afternoon at Elbow Beach, strolling the soft sand and testing the turquoise waters. Later, choose a waterfront terrace, such as the trendy Seabreeze Lounge on Paget’s South Shore, The Dock in Southampton, or sunset-soaked 1609 Bar & Restaurant on Hamilton Harbour for an alfresco dinner.

Day 2

Head into Hamilton for home-grown breakfast with Bermudians at the Cottage Café & Bistro. Spend the morning exploring Front, Reid, and Church Streets’ boutiques, art galleries, and churches. Climb Holy Trinity Cathedral’s landmark tower to overlook the city. Try lunch at sushi hot spot Beluga Seafood Bar or farm-to-table Devil’s Isle Kitchen and Bar. In the afternoon, rent a scooter or hop on a bus and cruise the North Shore to visit Crystal Cave and Fantasy Cave. Watch the daylight dwindle aboard a Hamilton Harbour sunset cruise, then head to Marcus’, celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson’s restaurant that puts his award-winning spin on island cuisine.

Day 3

Cool out on the beach today. Go to pristine Warwick Long Bay for bodysurfing, sandcastles, and snorkeling. Follow the trail west through protected, dune-cradled South Shore National Park to sample Jobson’s Cove, followed by Chaplin, Stonehole, and Horseshoe Bays. Take a dip at each. Have lunch at the foot of Gibbs Hill Lighthouse inside The Dining Room. In the late afternoon, escape the sun and indulge in a spa treatment at a resort (book your treatment days in advance if possible).

bodysurfing on the South Shore

Day 4

Take the ferry from Hamilton across the Great Sound to the Royal Naval Dockyard, scooter optional. Book a half-day scuba outing, rent a kayak, or take a snorkeling or paragliding tour of the West End. Celebrate the neighborhood’s British heritage with a pub lunch, then learn stories of soldiers, slaves, immigrants, and war vets at the National Museum of Bermuda. Grab a rum cake, a piece of blown glass, or a painting from the Bermuda Arts Centre to take home.

Day 5

Take the ferry along the North Shore to St. George’s. Explore the museums and backstreets of the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit area forts (also UNESCO gems), including Gates Fort, Alexandra Battery, the Martello Tower at Ferry Reach, and Fort St. Catherine, with its commanding views of the bay where the first settlers landed. Have lunch at one of the wharf-side eateries, then do some souvenir scouting.

Day 6

Walk in John Lennon’s footsteps at the Bermuda Botanical Gardens in Paget, where Double Fantasy was born, and pay a visit to the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Head to North Hamilton for a Caribbean-style lunch at one of the many cafés, such as Jamaican Grill, Juice ’n’ Beans or Fish & Tings. Climb up to nearby Fort Hamilton for moat gardens and panoramic views, and stroll the backstreets to glimpse gingerbread architecture. If it’s a Wednesday, return to the city for a stroll around Harbour Nights, or go for an evening pool dip or a chilled dark ’n’ stormy.

Day 7

Grab an early-morning beach run or walk along the South Shore and cool off with a dip in the balmy water before your flight out.

A Romantic Retreat


Moon gates, hidden beaches, star-speckled skies, and blossom-scented breezes—Bermuda’s charms, like the setting of an over-the-top pulp romance, soon put lovebirds in the mood. The island is a popular destination for couples planning a romantic long weekend, a honeymoon, wedding anniversary, or trendy “babymoon,” not least because of the easy flight from North American East Coast cities (flight times range from 1.5-2.5 hours). Bermuda’s natural beauty and languorous pace are seductive to anyone hoping to celebrate a new romance, toast coupledom, or fall in love all over again.

Day 1

Most flights from North America arrive in Bermuda at midday or early afternoon, leaving lots of time to begin unwinding. Check into the gorgeously renovated “Pink Palace,” the historic Hamilton Princess & Beach Club, where you can sip swizzles or mango lemonade beside the infinity pool overlooking the superyachts and passing spinnakers. Stretch your legs along Front Street, where you and your honey can compare perfumes at Lili Bermuda, or buy a pair of bona fide Bermuda shorts. In the evening, stroll through the lush gardens at Ascot’s before dinner-for-two in the charming former mansion.

Day 2

Share a scooter or a tiny Twizy (an electric car perfect for two) and enjoy exploring the postcard-pretty West End. Explore Somerset’s pastel lanes on foot, then pick up a takeout lunch from the Village Café, Woody’s Drive-in Two Bar and Restaurant, or Gloria’s Kitchen for a private picnic and swim at Black Bay. Enjoy an early dinner at alfresco restaurant Breezes before heading back to stargaze amid the tree frogs.

Day 3

Head east for a magical underground couple’s massage inside Prospero’s Cave Spa at Grotto Bay Beach Resort. Continue on to Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve, a 44-acre peninsula bordered by secluded azure beaches. Then drop into historic St. George’s for afternoon tea at The Bermuda Perfumery. Don’t miss a visit to gather a turquoise treasure from Davidrose Jewelry on the cobblestoned waterfront.

Day 4

Make sure you book an afternoon flight out, if possible, to make the most of the morning. Have another swim, or tour the harbor and Great Sound by ferry before you leave.

Family Vacation

Being a kid in Bermuda is like stepping into Fantasia or Alice in Wonderland.


On Sale
Jun 19, 2018
Page Count
350 pages
Moon Travel

Rosemary Jones

About the Author

Born to British immigrants, journalist Rosemary Jones grew up in Bermuda and still calls the island home, though she has also lived in Toronto, Madrid, Paris, Costa Rica, and the Caribbean.

For more than a decade, Rosemary has been editorial director of Brimstone Media Ltd., a Bermuda-based company she launched with her journalist husband to produce and package books, magazines, museum exhibits, films, and other creative ventures. She is a contributor to People and Islands, has worked for the Toronto Star, Toronto Sun, and Broadcast News/Canadian Press, and has been published in numerous North American newspapers and magazines. She is also a former editor of The Bermudian magazine, and has written several history books about the island, including Hall of History: Bermuda’s Story in Art, Bermuda: Five Centuries for Young People, and Bermuda: Five Centuries-winner of the Bermuda Literary Award for Non-Fiction.

Rosemary lives in Paget, Bermuda with her husband, their son, and four cats. See her Instagram at @rosebermuda.

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