Route 9N continues north of Bolton Landing  into much wilder countryside. At last the tourist centers are left behind as you veer away from the lakeshore, past the Tongue Mountain Range, and then return to it once again, passing the isolated resort communities of Sabbath Day Point, Silver Bay, and Hague.
Scenic Route 8 heads west out of Hague to Brant Lake, about 10 miles away. En route, lookouts offer great views of the High Peaks ; in the fall, the surrounding Dixon Forest turns vivid hues of red, yellow, and orange. Mohawk legend describes this as the land of Broken Wing, a crippled brave who saved his village and is remembered every autumn by the turning of the leaves.
About two miles north of Hague on Route 9N are the Indian Kettles, shallow glacial potholes 1–3 feet in diameter. The white man’s legend has it that Native Americans once used the potholes for cooking.
Just north of the Indian Kettles, Rogers Rock State Park (Rte. 9N, 518/585-6746, $6–8 parking) offers a 321-site campground, beach, and bathhouse, along with a 2.5-mile hiking trail that leads up 500 feet to Rogers Slide. At first, the trail winds mostly uphill and northerly, but then it flattens out to run along a ledge and open expanse. Keeping to the right at a fork just past the ledge will bring you to cliffs overlooking Lake George . For campground reservations, call 800/456-CAMP.
Forty-eight of the islands dotting Lake George are available for camping, though accessible only by boat. The gorgeous setting, absolute privacy, and crystal clear swimming make these an obvious draw. For more information, contact the local Department of Environmental Conservation office (518/623-1200) or visit the DEC’s website (www.dec.state.ny.us ) and type in “Lake George islands.” A quick sightseeing cruise on the Sagamore boat (110 Sagamore Rd., 518/644-9400, www.thesagamore.com , $10 for nonguests, daily), notebook in hand, allows you to handpick which island from the multitude best suits your needs.
One of the last of the old lakeside hotels that once flourished in this region is the Northern Lake George Resort (Rte. 9N, Silver Bay, 518/543-6528, www.northernlakegeorge.com , $85–115 d). Built in 1896, when it was known as the Hotel Uncas, the hostelry has been altered over the years but still features an old-fashioned rustic lobby complete with stone fireplace and high ceilings. Also on-site are lakeside villas and motel rooms.