Established in 1942 as a base camp for Alaska Highway construction, this town of 800 is the largest between Whitehorse  and Tok and is the gateway to Kluane National Park , the most accessible of the Yukon’s three national parks. It’s also the first town north of Haines  (Alaska), and so sees a lot of traffic from the ferry passing through.
Haines Junction Visitor Information Centre (867/634-2345, early May–late Sept. daily 10 a.m.–6 p.m., July–Aug. daily 8 a.m.–8 p.m.) is a provincially operated facility on the highway through town.
At the village square near the intersection of the Alaska and Haines Highways, a grotesque sculpture of mountains, mammals, and humans has been placed. Ironically, it’s part of a Yukon  beautification program. It looks more like a misshapen cupcake with really ugly icing. Here you can also read the signboards describing the history and attractions of the Haines Junction area and sign your name in the gigantic guest book.
Just up the road toward Whitehorse is Our Lady of the Way Church, built in 1954 by a Catholic priest who converted an old Quonset hut by adding a wooden front, a shrine on top, and a steeple with bell in back.
Haines has a bunch of motels to choose from (listed in the territorial tourism guide), along with the following three choices.
Paddle Wheel Adventures (867/634-2683, www.paddlewheeladventures.com ) rents modern Quonset-style huts, each with a cooking facilities and a private bathroom, for a reasonable $60 per night. Primarily outfitters, they also rent canoes and bikes and lead guided raft and fishing tours.
The Cabin (27 km/16.8 mi south of Haines Jct. on Hwy. 3, 867/634-2626, www.thecabinyukon.com , $85 s, $95 d) comprises five rustic cabins, each with a kitchenette and deck with views extending over Kluane National Park .
The Raven Hotel (867/634-2500, www.ravenhotelyukon.com , May–Sept., $120 s, $135 d including breakfast) offers the 12 nicest motel rooms in town, a restaurant with lots of local specialties, and an art gallery/gift shop. You can’t miss it; the Raven looks like a modular mansion, right in the middle of town.
Right downtown, Kluane RV Kampground (867/634-2709, www.kluanerv.ca , tents $18, hookups $24–30) separates tenters from RVers but offers lots of services for both. For in-town camping, the tent sites are pleasant, with lots of trees, and barbecues and firewood supplied. The sites with hookups come with cable TV and Internet access, but don’t have much privacy. Other amenities include a shower block, laundry, car and RV wash, grocery store, and gas.
Village Bakery (867/634-2867, May–Sept.) is a popular hangout, with delicious muffins, strudels, doughnuts, and cheese sticks, as well as breads, sourdough sandwiches (try the smoked salmon, which is smoked on-site), soups, quiches, sourdough pizzas, lasagna, meat pies, and whatever else the good cooks feel like creating. On Friday at 6:30 p.m. there’s a salmon barbecue ($17) and live music on the deck.
Several of the hotels also serve meals, including—most notably—the Raven Hotel (867/634-2500, May–Sept. daily 5:30–10 p.m., $18–31). The menu here changes daily, but the choices are always varied and thoughtful. Considering the remote location, the owners do a great job of sourcing fresh produce to go with lots of local game and seafood. Views of the snowcapped peaks of Kluane National Park  are a bonus.