Food

In downtown Field, Truffle Pigs Bistro (Kicking Horse Lodge, 250/343-6303; daily for lunch and dinner, also breakfast in summer; $17–31) is one of those unexpected finds that makes traveling such a joy. In the evening this place really shines, with dishes as adventurous as smoked Alaskan salmon tiramisu and as simple as an Albertan-raised beef served with baby potatoes and grilled tomato.

Overlooking an arm of Emerald Lake [1], Cilantro on the Lake (250/343-6321, daily 11 a.m.–9 p.m. mid-June–Sept., $25–37) is a casual café featuring magnificent views from tables inside an open-fronted, log chalet–style building or out on the lakefront deck.