Accommodations

Marvel at the wonder of Takakkaw Falls [1] from the deck at HI–Yoho, also known as Whiskey Jack Hostel (Yoho Valley Rd., 403/760-7580 or 866/762-4122, www.hihostels.ca; mid-June–Sept.; members $23, nonmembers $27). Basic dormitory accommodation is provided for up to 27 guests, who have use of a communal kitchen and showers.

In downtown Field, Fireweed Hostel (313 Stephen Ave., 250/343-6999 or 877/343-6999, www.fireweedhostel.com [2], dorms $40, two-bedroom suite $160) is one of the few private backpacker lodges in the Canadian Rockies [3]—and it’s a good one. It’s a modern, purpose-built building with solid bunk beds topped by pillow top mattresses, a beautiful lounge with a log fireplace and LCD TV, and a modern well-equipped kitchen.

Also in Field is the simple yet elegant Kicking Horse Lodge (100 Centre St., 250/343-6303, www.trufflepigs.com; $165–250 s or d), which offers 14 well-furnished rooms and the highly recommended Truffle Pigs Bistro.

Emerald Lake Lodge (3 km west of Field then 6 km north at the end of the road to Emerald Lake [1], 250/343-6321 or 800/663-6336, www.crmr.com [4], from $330 s or d) is a gracious, luxury-class accommodation along the southern shore of one of the Canadian Rockies’ most magnificent lakes. Guests lap up the luxury of richly decorated duplex-style units and freestanding cabins.

Outfitted in a heritage theme, each has a wood-burning fireplace, private balcony, luxurious bathroom, and comfortable bed topped by a plush duvet. Lodge amenities include a hot tub and sauna, swimming pool, restaurant, lounge, and lakefront café. Guests can also go horseback riding, or go boating and fishing on Emerald Lake.

Spending a night at Lake O’Hara Lodge (250/343-6418, www.lakeohara.com [5], mid-June–early Oct.) is a special experience, and one that draws familiar faces year after year. Rates of $420 s, $535 d for a room in the main lodge (shared bathrooms) and $760–775 d for a lakeside cabin include all meals, taxes, gratuities, and transportation.