Located eight miles northwest of the ferry terminal, Totem Bight State Historical Park (907/247-8574, www.alaskastateparks.org , free) has 15 Haida and Tlingit totems and a realistic replica of a clan house, complete with a brightly painted facade and cedar-scented interior. Be sure to pick up the brochure describing the poles and their meanings.
The totems, carved 1938–1941, are modeled after older poles. They are surrounded by a stand of young hemlock trees and a gorgeous view across Tongass Narrows. Drop by the gift shop for details on the poles or the informative weekly tours.
Access to Totem Bight is easy and cheap: city buses ($1 each way) stop at Totem Bight hourly on weekdays.