Four recent changes in Cuba that affect tourists

I'm fresh in from nine weeks in Cuba, where I spent a full two months exploring the provinces beyond Havana for the all-new, forthcoming fifth edition of Moon Cuba. Here, in a nutshell, are four of the most salient changes of note to travelers to Cuba since the last edition...

1 Foreigners can no longer use Astro, the inter-city public bus system, which is now reserved exclusively for Cubans. Travelers are now relegated to the more costly Viazul [2] bus service, specifically for foreigners. It links Havana with major cities and key tourist destinations.

2 Transtur [3] has introduced sightseeing bus services in five cities and beach resorts, including Varadero, in addition to the Havanabustour, which I described in a previous blog. These tours are great for getting an overview of Viñales, Varadero, Trinidad (including Playa Ancon), Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillerno (Jardines del Rey), Guardalavaca and Holguín, Matanzas, and Baracoa.

3 Cuba has reduced its car rental agencies to three. Forget Avis and Hertz. All four agencies are state run: Cubacar (supposedly for economy cars, but it even rents BMWs in Havana), Havanautos (mid-range), and Rex (supposedly for deluxe cars, but it also rents inexpensive Skodas) pertain to Transtur [3], while Gaviota runs Via Rent-a-Car (mainly using economical Peugeots). Trying to rent a car in major tourists destinations is difficult during high season, due to a severe shortage of vehicles. Renting in Havana is a particular challenge. During the first week of November, I searched high and low for two days with various rental offices before finding an available car. Bookings can only be made 15 days in advance, alas, and reservations are never guaranteed. I'll report on car rentals in greater depth in a forthcoming blog.

4 The police have been beefed up, and their presence is noticeably stronger throughout the country, including motorcycle patrols (called tránsitos) . In particular, drivers should "beware" puntos de control. Literally, "control points." These are situated at strategic points beside highways at the entrances to major towns, and along major highways. There are now dozens throughout the country.