The best place in town to savor typical Amazonian cuisine is Choupana (Rua Recife 790, Adrianópolis, tel. 92/3635-3878, www.restaurantechoupana.com.br , 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6:30–11:30 p.m. Tues.–Sat., 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Sun., R$25–35). The setting—a palm thatched bungalow supported by tree trunk pillars and chairs woven with organic fibers—will get you in the mood to savor specialties such as pato no tucupi, served with jambu. The real forte here is Amazonian river fish such as grilled tambaqui accompanied with sautéed vegetables and fried pacova bananas. For dessert, the cupuaçu-chocolate torte gets you very close to heaven.
Turiyá Amazônia (Rua Riu Purus 260, Adrianópolis, tel. 92/3633-3033, 10 a.m.–1 a.m. Tues.–Sat., 4–11 p.m. Sun.–Mon., R$8–15) is a laid-back corner restaurant/lanchonete that serves delicious snacks and meals that are often surprisingly exotic (even by Amazonian standards). You’ll find basics such as healthy açai (topped with banana, condensed milk, and/or granola) as well as caboclinho sandwiches featuring tucumã mixed with fillings such as banana or coalho cheese.
The pizza topped with jambu is a big happy-hour hit as are the tapiocas, filled with combinations such as dried pirarucu with banana or chocolate and cupuaçu jelly. If you’re feeling really adventurous, dig into the pirarucu encantando, in which the shredded fish is topped with layers of fried banana, melted coalho cheese, and tucumã puree, or the truly unusual picadinho de tartaruga, featuring sautéed turtle meat.
Canto da Peixada (Rua Emílio Moreira 1677, Praça 14, tel. 92/3234-3021, 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. and 6:30–11:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat., R$30–40) is Manaus ’s oldest and most venerated peixaria, specializing in expertly prepared Amazonian fish. Whet your appetite with the crisp, turnover-like pastéis de pirarucu before digging into a caldeirada (stew) featuring tucunaré or a perfectly grilled tambaqui. Cleanse your palate with cupuaçu or passion fruit mousse. Although the decor is nothing special, the service is very attentive.