Accommodations

For the most part, accommodations on Marajó [1] are fairly relaxed and rustic. Make sure to reserve in advance during holidays or long weekends when Belenenses vacation here. Apart from fazenda lodges, most accommodations are divided between Soure and Salvaterra.

In Soure, a very pretty budget option is Pousada O Canto do Francês (6a Rua, São Pedro, tel. 91/3741-1298, thcarliez [at] ig [dot] com [dot] br, R$70–80d). Set amidst lush green gardens, rooms are soothing with bleached walls and polished wooden furniture. Common rooms are tastefully decorated with antiques and local artifacts. English is spoken and the French owner, Thierry, can organize excursions. You can also rent a bike to tool around to nearby beaches.

Staying in Salvaterra gives you the advantage of being right on the lovely sands of Praia Grande. Pousada Boto (Rodovia Alcindo Cancela, tel. 91/3765-1539, www.pousadaboto.com.br [2], R$70–90 d) is an amazing deal. The cheery bungalow accommodations are smallish and basic, but the leafy gardens, friendly staff, and three-minutes-from-the-beach location more than compensate. The food is quite decent and you can rent bikes and motorcycles to explore the island.

Fancier, but still incredibly affordable is Pousada dos Guarás (Av. Beira-Mar, tel. 91/3765-1149, www.pousadadosguaras.com.br [3], R$130–150 d). Scattered amidst a sprawling palm-studded estate overlooking the beach, the private bungalow accommodations are quite fetching. Local art hangs upon brightly colored walls and curtains and bedspreads are stamped with oversized tropical flowers. There is a sizable pool and a scenic restaurant with an extensive menu of both regional and international dishes. When booking, you can request an all-inclusive package that includes numerous activities and guided excursions to natural attractions, buffalo fazendas, and Soure. Aside from the hotel restaurants, various barracas sell simple, delicious fish and seafood specialties right on the beach.

If you’re in the mood for total tranquility, consider staying in the charming little fishing village of Joanes. Owned by a Brazilian-Belgian couple, the Pousada Ventânia (tel. 91/3646-2067, www.pousadaventania.com [4], R$80–90 d) is a friendly and delightfully rustic pousada perched upon a cliff overlooking a secluded beach. Its lofty position ensures constant breezes (and very few mosquitos). The basic, pleasant rooms have views of the Baía de Marajó and sleep up to four. Aside from renting out bikes and canoes, the owners can organize inexpensive guided outings.