Food

On Mutá beach [1] (in front of Hotel da Torre) is the reputed Recanto de Sossego (tel. 73/3677-1266, 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. daily, R$35–50). Since the owner hails from Livorno, Italy, it is unsurprising that this restaurant’s pasta and seafood—in combinations such as pesto with giant shrimp—are the forte of this eatery. On weekends, be prepared to brave lineups.

Back in town, seafood is also the main event at Bistrô da Helô (Travessa Assis Chateaubriand, tel. 73/3288-3940, 6:30 p.m.–midnight Mon.–Sat., R$40–50), considered one of Porto’s best restaurants. Since the place is small (and rather romantic), reservations are a must if you want to sample creative dishes such as fresh fish bathed in a passion fruit emulsion or grilled shrimp with eggplant and brie risotto.

For Bahian fare, the simple yet traditional Tia Nenzinha (Av. Portugal 170, tel. 73/3288-1846, 11 a.m.–midnight daily, R$30–40), located right on the Passarela do Alcool, serves up well-seasoned specialties such as fish moqueca with shrimp.

More eclectic is the Portuguese-owned Anticaro (Travessa Assis Chateaubriand 26, tel. 73/3288-2683, 1–4 p.m. high season only and 6 p.m.–midnight daily, R$35–45), both in terms of its wacky decorative scheme of second-hand store antiques and its menu, which offers such dishes as succulent lobster, fish steamed in champagne, and shrimp with abacaxi (a type of pineapple).

If you’re in the mood for pizza, the best in town is located in a pretty coral-colored house with a cozy white interior called Sambucca (Praça dos Pataxós 216, Coelho 188, tel. 73/3288-2366, 6 p.m.–midnight daily, R$20–30), located right beside the pier.

For cheap, fast, and delicious comida por quilo, head to the nearby Portinha (Rua Saldanha Marinha 43, tel. 73/3288-2943, www.brisadomarpousada.com.br [2], R$10–15). Here you can pick and choose from a buffet of fresh salads and hot dishes warmed over a wood oven before savoring your meal at the wooden picnic tables planted in a leafy garden or out on the cobblestoned street.