Accommodations

Having become increasingly upscale and Euro-centric, Praia do Forte [1] is not the cheapest place to stay along Bahia [2]’s north coast. However, in off-season and during the week, it’s possible to find some good discounts.

One of the oldest and most pleasant of Praia do Forte’s pousadas is the Pousada Ogum Marinho (Av. ACM, tel. 71/3676-1165, www.ogummarinho.com.br [3], R$175–200 d), right off the beach. Rooms are comfortable and feature decent bathrooms as well as small verandas with softly woven hammocks. The restaurant prepares a nice mix of local and international fare.

Off the beaten track of Avenida ACM, the Pousada dos Artistas (Praça dos Artistas, tel. 71/3676-1147, www.pousadadosartistas.tur.br [4], R$125 d), with original decoration by its friendly artist owners, provides a quiet refuge surrounded by flowering gardens. Rooms are a little small, but comfortable.

For cheap, yet cheery, your best bet is the welcoming Pousada Balanço do Mar (Rua da Aurora 25, tel. 71/3676-1059, www.pousadabalancodomar.com.br [5], R$70–90 d).

The most charming place in town is Pousada Refúgio da Vila (Lot. Aldeia dos Pescadores, tel. 71/3676-0114, www.refugiodavila.com.br [6], R$300–550 d), whose lofty living and dining areas are beautifully designed and decorated to take advantage of the light and vivid colors of the surrounding gardens and lovely pool. Rooms are less spectacular, but very well appointed. Too bad some of the balconies overlook more “urbanized” parts of Praia do Forte. The breakfasts are out of this world.

Meanwhile, if you feel like splurging, check into the place that put Praia do Forte on the eco-tourist map way back in the 1980s: the Praia do Forte Eco Resort and Thalasso Spa (Av. do Farol, tel. 71/3676-4000, tel. 0800/71-8888, www.praiadoforteecoresort.com.br/ing/index.asp [7], R$800–1,170 d). Set amidst beautifully groomed gardens well-endowed with swimming pools, bars, and lounge chairs, and overlooking a crescent-shaped beach, this sprawling resort is hardly intimate, yet it definitely makes you feel spoiled and relaxed. All the bright and spacious rooms have ocean views. If the prices seem a bit steep, keep in mind that they include a welcome drink, breakfast and dinner (the spreads are marvelous), sports and leisure equipment, and activities (lots of them) for both adults and children. The thalasso therapy sessions featuring algae and heated seawater are a big bonus.