When you leave the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco , you’ll be on the cobblestoned Rua Inácio Acciole. Keep walking and take a left on Rua Frei Vicente where you can admire the pastel-colored colonial buildings in hues of sky blue, pale pink, and lime. The carnivalesque color scheme is a modern touch; originally the Pelô’s buildings were painted in a more Andalusian white to deflect the heat of the hot tropical sun.
The Museu Udo Knoff de Azulejaria e Cerâmica (Rua Frei Vicente 3, tel. 71/3117-6388, 1–6 p.m. Tues.–Sat.) displays a lovely collection of ceramic tiles hailing from Portugal, Spain, Belgium, and Mexico. They are from the personal collection of Horst Udo Knoff, a German expat ceramicist whose own works are featured. Adjacent Rua Gregório de Matos is also filled with striking colonial mansions.