Terreiro de Jesus

Around the corner from Praça da Sé [1], you’ll find yourself in the much more impressive Terreiro de Jesus (officially known as Praça 15 de Novembro), which marks the beginning of the Pelourinho [2] district. Try to ignore the exaggeratedly made-up, turbaned, and petticoated Bahianas who will encourage you to have your picture taken with them.

From this sprawling cobblestoned square you can feast your eyes on four remarkable religious edifices: Catedral Basílica [3], or Sé; Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Domingos de Gusmão (tel. 71/3242-4185, 9 a.m.–midnight and 2–8 p.m. daily, R$1); the striking rococo Igreja São Pedro dos Clérigos (tel. 71/3321-0966, 2–6 p.m. Tues.–Fri.); and farther off, down the Largo de Cruzeiro de São Francisco, the stunning baroque church and convent of São Francisco [4].