Probably the nicest option in town is the Pousada Vila Verde (Rua Benfica 63, tel. 12/3671-1720, www.vilaverdeparaitinga.com.br , R$55–110 d). Rooms occupy a faux-colonial cluster of pastel-painted houses, located five minutes from Praça da Igreja Matriz.
Another good option is Pousada Primavera (Via de acesso Renato Aguiar 400, tel. 12/3671-1289, www.primaverapousada.com.br , R$95–115). Although the clean rooms of this modern pousada are somewhat spare, the bucolic grounds with a pool and great sweeping views more than compensate.
A tropeiro legacy, the local culinary specialty is afogado, a hearty and none too lean stew of beef and pork cooked over a low flame with cumin, parsley, and onions. It’s served with a generous dusting of manioc flour as well as a shot or two of local cachaça. You’ll find this dish at many restaurants in town, among them the cheery Cantinho dos Amigos (Rua Coronel Domingues de Castro 121, tel. 12/3671-1466, www.cantinhodosamigos.com.br , 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Mon.–Thurs. and 11 a.m.–midnight Fri.–Sun. regularly, 11 a.m.–midnight daily Jan. and July, R$12–24), which specializes in home-cooked regional fare as well as pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven.
Tempero da Terra (Rua Coronel Domingues de Castro 178, tel. 12/3671-1574, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, R$15–25) is another typical restaurant known for its appetizing local fare. For cakes, sandwiches, and sweet and savory baked goods, head to Cafeteria das Artes (Praça Oswaldo Cruz, tel. 12/3671-2662), located in a charming historic house that also sells handicrafts and exhibits works by local artists.