Accommodations and Food

Most accommodations in Santo Antônio [1] are in the countryside, several kilometers from the center of town. One of the closest to the center is the lovely and quite affordable Pousada Mirante (Rua José Cândido Machado 128, tel. 12/3666-1443, www.mirantepousada.com.br [2], R$150–180 d). Surrounded by greenery, the four cozy stone chalets are outfitted with fireplaces, roughhewn wooden furniture, and hand-embroidered sheets and quilts.

Some 5 kilometers (3 miles) from Santo Antônio, along the road leading to Pico Agudo, is the utterly charming Pousada Quinta dos Pinhais (tel. 12/3666-2030, www.quintadospinhais.com.br [3], R$380–790 d). Its privileged setting offers magnificent views of the Serra da Mantiqueira [4] and the Pedra do Baú [5]. You can contemplate the scenery from virtually anywhere—be it your room’s private wooden Jacuzzi, the lounge chairs surrounding the pool, or the estate’s rambling gardens and fruit orchards. The exquisitely designed chalets—built with recycled materials and precious Brazilian hardwoods—boast king-sized beds and fireplaces. Extras range from being greeted with wine and chocolates to having breakfast served to you anywhere on the grounds.

An atmospherically rustic restaurant with a thatched roof, Santa Truta (Av. Antônio Joaquim de Oliveira 267, tel. 12/3666-2764, noon–10 p.m. Sun.–Thurs., noon–midnight Fri.–Sat., R$20–30) does justice to the region’s favorite fish with mouthwatering recipes such as trout in roquefort sauce with sautéed potatoes, and trout with almond risotto in a red grape sauce.

Aside from panoramic views and a soothing soundtrack of live jazz and MPB, Restaurante Camponesa (Rua Turmalina 18, tel. 12/3666-1728, 7–11 p.m. Wed.–Thurs., noon–3 p.m. and 6–11 p.m. Fri., noon–1 a.m. Sat., noon–5 p.m. Sun. regularly; noon–3 p.m. and 6 p.m.–midnight daily in July, R$25–40) seduces with an eclectic seasonal menu. The focus is on fresh regional products such as rainbow trout served with locally grown shiitake mushrooms and exotic game. For dessert, try the torte made from local pine nuts, served with ice cream.