Paraty  has no shortage of enticing places to stay; the centro histórico has numerous pousadas housed in colonial mansions, ranging from cozy and affordable to refined and luxurious. In the summertime and during holidays, finding a room can be tricky, so make sure you reserve in advance. You might have more luck outside the centro histórico, but the charm factor will be less. During off-season, particularly during the week, you can often negotiate rates reduced up to 30 or 40 percent.
One of the most attractive and affordable hotels in the centro histórico is the Solar do Gerânios (Praça da Matriz, tel. 24/3371-1550, www.paraty.com.br/geranio , R$100 d). Located in a rambling sobrado, its homey atmosphere is enhanced by the friendly owner and her cats. Rooms are small, but spotless and cheery. The best ones have small balconies overlooking the square.
Pousada do Principe (Av. Roberto Silveira 69, tel. 24/3371-2266, www.pousadadoprincipe.com.br , R$115–179) has rooms fit for a principe (prince) or princesa, but with prices that a plebeian can afford. In fact, this sprawling pousada is owned by Dom João de Orleans e Bragança, great-great-grandson of Brazilian emperor Dom Pedro II. It was transformed into a handsome guesthouse by architect/princess Stela Orleans de Bragança. The rooms aren’t exactly regal, but they are bright and comfortable with views of a courtyard garden and swimming pool. Common spaces are slightly more palatial, and the portraits of the imperial family add an intimate monarchist touch.
Lacking in historic character, yet somewhat quaint, Pousada Flor do Mar (Rua Fresca 257, tel. 24/3371-1674, www.pousadaflordomar.com.br , R$100–120 d) offers clean and colorfully painted rooms for a nice price.
Pousada do Ouro (Rua da Praia 145, tel. 24/3371-2033, www.pousadadoouro.com.br , R$230–290 d) is a highly attractive guesthouse with tastefully furnished colonial-style rooms in a beautiful 18th-century sobrado (and a less impressive annex). Small touches—such as vases of wild orchids by the bedside—are abundant. A sauna, fitness room, and pool round out the amenities.
Those in search of luxury at affordable prices will find it in spades at
Pousada da Marquesa (Rua Dona Geralda 99, tel. 24/3371-1261, www.pousadadamarquesa.com.br , R$300–400 d). Rooms (those in the main house are nicer) are beautifully furnished with local antiques and artwork that capture the refined yet rustic ambiance of a tropical colonial home. Verandas and comfortable salons abound and the shady garden boasts a large pool where guests can sprawl on chaise lounges veiled by billowy white curtains.
Upon arriving at the Pousada de Arte Urquijo (Rua Dona Geralda 79, tel. 24/3371-1362, www.urquijo.com.br , R$290–330 d, no children under 12), guests are invited to remove their shoes and don comfortable Japanese slippers in which they can glide around the polished wood floors of this originally renovated 18th-century sobrado. Painter/proprietor Luz Urquijo has an artist’s eye for detail, reflected in the unusual furnishings, bright, bold canvases on the walls (many by Luz and her daughter), and charming touches such as incense, wafting music, plush towels, and oversized robes.
One of Paraty ’s oldest guesthouses, Pousada Pardieiro (Rua do Comércio 74, tel. 24/3371-1370, www.pousadapardiero.com.br . R$310–364 d, no children under 15) effortlessly captures the rustic charm and simplicity of Paraty. The cluster of 18th-century houses converted into atmospheric apartments resembles a private colonial village. Rooms are impeccably furnished with antiques. They face a pool and tranquil gardens whose trees are filled with monkeys. Service is attentive.