Although Rio ’s most traditional dish—feijoada—is characteristically eaten on Saturday, for years now Casa da Feijoada (Rua Prudent de Moraes 10, Ipanema, tel. 21/2247-2476, www.cozinhatipica.com.br , noon–midnight daily, R$35–50) has been serving up a mouthwatering version for those who get cravings on any day of the week. Since gringos frequent the place, the house breaks with convention by letting customers select their own pieces of meat (thus allowing the more squeamish to avoid ears, tails, and feet). Along with the classic accompaniments of braised couve (kale), torresmos (pork rinds), fried aipim (manioc), and farofa, the somewhat steep all-you-can-eat price of R$47 includes caldo de feijão, a caipirinha, and homemade desserts. For those who aren’t in a bean-ish frame of mind, there are other classic Brazilian options.
Or you could head to Brasileirinho (Rua Jangadeiros 10, Loja A, Ipanema, tel. 21/2513-5184, www.cozinhatipica.com.br , noon–midnight daily, R$20–30). Despite the same ownership, this rustically decorated boteco is smaller and simpler (not to mention cheaper). Although you can take advantage of the same delicious feijoada (for a more modest R$32), the focus here is the succulent regional fare of Minas Gerais. Among the most popular Mineiro offerings are carne seca com abóbora (sun-dried beef with pumpkin) and tutu à mineira, a hearty stew of pork and pureed beans.