To truly savor Bahian cuisine—with its emphasis on seafood and fish—there’s nowhere better than the beach. With this in mind, head to the recently opened Siri Mole Praia (Av. Atlântica, Quiosque 32 in front of Rua Bolivar, Copacabana, tel. 21/3684-6671, 3 p.m.–midnight Mon., 9 a.m.–midnight Tues.–Sun., R$60–80). For a snack, order the crunchy acarajés, Afro-Brazilian bean fritters fried to a crisp in dendê (palm) oil and stuffed with dried shrimp, caruru (seasoned okra), and vatapá (a puree featuring shrimp, cashews, dendê, and coconut milk).
For a light bite choose from the refreshing seafood starters and salads, or else go whole hog and order a famous moqueca: a succulent fish or seafood stew cooked with tomatoes, coconut milk, cilantro, lime, and dendê. The most popular are made with either siri mole (soft-shelled crab), lobster, or shrimp.