1105 W. 36th St., 410/889-8891,
HOURS: Mon.–Fri. 9 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–9:45 p.m.,
Sat. 9 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and 5–9:45 p.m.,
Sun. 9 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and 5–8:45 p.m.
COST: Most entrées between $10–20
The decor is American Western Kitsch (note the looming mounted moose head and barbed wire samplers), the wait staff is unapologetically hipster, and the menu is…well, it’s all over the place, but in the best way. Tex-Mex is sort of the guiding principle here (fantastic polenta with carne, Frito pie, and enchiladas), but there are also Asian influences, and other dishes inspired by a multitude of cuisines—all made fresh, to order, and with care.
Huge and wholesome breakfasts are a specialty here, which makes the waits for Sunday brunch long but worthwhile. Also note that the kitchen closes midday, every day, before reopening for dinner; on weekends, it’s brunch only until 5 p.m.