The Bicycle $$$

1444 Light St., 410/234-1900,
www.bicyclebistro.com [1]

HOURS: Sun.–Tues. 5:30–9 p.m., Wed.–Sat. 5:30–10 p.m.

COST: Most entrées more than $20

It’s hard to get the combination of a serious restaurant and an amusing dining experience to work together, but that’s exactly what brings so many diners to The Bicycle. The wood-and-metal interior is sleek and modern, and there’s also a great little outdoor patio that holds several tables.

The menu, on first glance, doesn’t seem particularly inventive—grilled salmon, short ribs, gnocchi—but notice the details of the dishes (and the artistic presentation). There’s parmesan flan, and goosefat-roasted potatoes, which explains some of the enthusiasm for this eatery.

Don’t skip dessert here (they’re made in-house): The lemongrass crème brûlée and brioche bread pudding are worth saving room for.