Cinghiale $$$

822 Lancaster St., 410/547-8282,
www.cinghiale-osteria.com [1]

HOURS: Lunch Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.,
dinner Mon.–Thurs. 5–9 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–1 a.m.

COST: Most entrées more than $20

Though it’s built in the ground floor of a new condo and apartment building, Cinghiale could be an 80-year-old Italian restaurant, lifted right out of its beloved little town and placed gently just a few dozen feet from the Baltimore [2] waterfront.

There are two separate and beautiful dining rooms here; one is a less-formal, bistro-like enoteca, designed for casual diners who want small plates while they explore the immense wine collection. The more serious, mahogany and leather osteria is where the kitchen and menu aim for new heights (such as magret of duck with fennel, and veal tenderloin).