North of I-794 is another modestly gentrified zone along both sides of the Milwaukee River. To the east is Water Street, the happening mélange of microbreweries, sports pubs, dance clubs, restaurants, and cultural attractions. To the west is Old World 3rd Street, with more classic Milwaukee  edifices, original old hotels and factories, the Bradley Center, and more restaurants.
The riverwalk here includes Pere Marquette Park, with a gazebo, pavilion, and boat dock for tours, along with permanent decks and slips over the water.
Also along North Old World 3rd Street is Usinger’s (1030 N. Old World 3rd St., 414/276-9100, 8:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat.), known as the Tiffany of sausage makers. In a city raised on fleisch, Usinger’s has been the carnivore’s heaven since 1880 and partially explains the occasional odd olfactory sensation downtown—the sweet scent of wood smoke mingling with the smell of brewer’s yeast. Food and Wine has dubbed Usinger’s bratwurst the best sausage in America.