Gayhawk Restaurant (685 Danny Thomas Blvd., 901/947-1464, Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun. noon–5 p.m., $6–10) serves country-style food that sticks to your ribs and warms your soul. Chef Bobo declares that his specialty is “home-cooked food” and it really is as simple as that. The best thing about Gayhawk is the luncheon buffet, which lets newcomers to Southern cooking survey the choices and try a little bit of everything. The Sunday lunch buffet practically sags with specialties like fried chicken, grilled fish, macaroni and cheese, greens, and much, much more.