Within Grand Teton National Park , 25 miles north of Jackson, Triangle X Ranch  (307/733-2183 or 888/860-0005, www.trianglex.com , May-Oct. and late Dec.-mid-Mar.) is a classic family-oriented ranch with unmatched Teton views. The ranch has been in the Turner family for more than 75 years, and the acclaimed author Barry Lopez once worked as a wrangler here. Horseback riding is the main focus, but it also offers kids’ programs and nightly events such as Dutch-oven cookouts, naturalist presentations, square dancing, and campfire sing-alongs. All-inclusive weekly rates are $3,700 for two adults. In winter Triangle X goes upscale, with fewer guests (maximum of 35, versus 80 in the summer), a hot tub, and three gourmet meals a day. The nightly winter rate is $250 d, including lodging, meals, and use of cross-country skis and snowshoes. There’s a two-night minimum stay in winter and a one-week minimum stay in summer (four nights in spring and fall). No credit cards accepted in the summer. In addition, Triangle X offers very popular Snake River float trips.
Wyoming’s most elaborate—and expensive—guest ranch, Lost Creek Ranch (307/733-3435,www.lostcreek.com, late May-mid-Sept.), is 21 miles north of Jackson. This showplace resort emphasizes fitness, with a spa facility that includes exercise classes, a weight room, steam room, sauna, and hot tub, along with massage and facials (extra charge). Guests stay in modern duplex log cabins and enjoy gourmet meals in the main lodge’s patio overlooking the Tetons. Amenities include such nontraditional items as a heated swimming pool, tennis courts, and a skeet range, in addition to more standard horseback riding, kid programs, float trips, hiking, Yellowstone tours, and fly-fishing. It’s all a bit too Disneyesque for my taste, and the prices are too Madison Avenue. Weekly all-inclusive rates run $5,400 for two people in a duplex cabin or an astounding $13,000 for up to four people in a luxurious two-bedroom, two-bath cabin with a living room and fireplace. Some consider this a small price to pay for such pampering. The ranch hosts a maximum of 60 guests at a time. There is a one-week minimum stay.
You might get lucky and find a space at historic Moose Head Ranch (26 miles north of Jackson, 307/733-3141 in summer or 850/877-1431 Oct.-May, www.mooseheadranch.com ). This family ranch has room for 44 guests and receives so many repeat customers that it’s almost always booked up. New guests should call for reservations in October for the following summer, but cancellations occasionally occur, even in midsummer. The 120-acre ranch is entirely surrounded by Grand Teton National Park  and features modern log cabins, horseback riding, private trout ponds, fly-fishing lessons, and gourmet meals. There’s a five-night minimum stay, and all-inclusive rates are $5,300 per week for two people. The ranch is open June-mid-August.
A longtime favorite—it began taking guests in the 1920s—is Turpin Meadow Ranch (307/543-2496 or 800/743-2496, www.turpinmeadowranch.com ). The ranch’s Buffalo Valley location provides impressive Teton vistas, along with all of the traditional ranch activities: horseback riding, cookouts, fly-fishing, day trips to Yellowstone, and pack trips. Guests stay in modern cabins; summertime all-inclusive weekly rates are $2,800-3,800 for two people. The ranch is open May-October and December-March, and is a favorite snowmobiling spot in winter. Call for winter details and rates.
A classic family summer destination, Heart Six Ranch (307/543-2477 or 888/543-2477, www.heartsix.com ) is in the heart of Buffalo Valley, 12 miles east of Moran Junction  and 43 miles northeast of Jackson. Horseback rides are a star attraction, along with kids’ programs, day trips to Yellowstone National Park  and the Jackson Hole rodeo , and a range of evening activities including cookouts, nature programs, and Western music. Or, you can just relax in the hot tub while kids play in the outdoor pool. All-inclusive weekly rates are $4,000 for two people. The ranch takes in up to 50 guests at a time and is open year-round. Only weekly stays are available June-August, but at other times of the year the ranch offers nightly lodging ($75-250 d). This is a favorite base for snowmobilers mid-December-March.
Looking for a peaceful place to really relax? Twenty miles up a dirt road in undeveloped Gros Ventre Valley  (30 miles northeast of Jackson), Goosewing Ranch (307/733-5251 or 888/733-5251, www.goosewingranch.com ) is one of the most remote guest ranches in Jackson Hole. The well-appointed modern log cabins have fireplaces, private baths, and decks. Guests can use the outdoor hot tub all year and the outdoor heated pool in the summer. Popular summertime activities include horseback excursions, fly-fishing, mountain-biking, hiking, and children’s programs. All-inclusive weekly midsummer rates are $2,600 for two people. There’s a three-night minimum stay, and the ranch accommodates a maximum of 30 guests. When winter arrives, the ranch becomes a favorite destination for snowmobiling, with a variety of packages available.
Situated up undiscovered Gros Ventre River Valley (15 miles northeast of Jackson  near Slide Lake), Gros Ventre River Ranch (307/733-4138, www.grosventreriverranch.com , May-Oct.) is a small ranch with accommodations for up to 45 guests in modern log cabins and a homestead house and is known for its delicious meals. The main activities are horseback riding, world-class fly-fishing, cookouts, canoeing, and mountain-biking. The lodge has a pool table, table tennis, and large-screen television. Weekly all-inclusive rates are $3,370 for two people.
Along the rolling Gros Ventre River, Red Rock Ranch (307/733-6288, www.theredrockranch.com , June-mid-Sept.) faces spectacular orange-red badlands. The ranch is 32 miles northeast of Jackson, and the quiet location and drop-dead-gorgeous scenery are reason enough to stay here. Guests settle into comfortable log cabins with woodstoves, and take part in horseback riding, cookouts, and other activities. The ranch also features kids’ programs, stocked fishing ponds, a large swimming pool, and a hot tub. There’s space for a maximum of 30 guests, and a six-night minimum stay is required. All-inclusive rates are $3,700 for two adults for six nights.