Built on a bridge by the ferry landing, the Tidewater Motel (207/863-4618, www.tidewatermotel.com , $165–195) offers friendly and basic accommodations. Owners Phil and Elaine Crossman are especially helpful in orientating guests to the island. Some rooms have kitchens and decks overlooking the harbor. For kids, the Crossmans offer a “crab grab bait bag” to help your little one snag a crab in the harbor.
The stunning Victorian mansion of a granite baron is now the Payne Homestead (Main St., 207/863-9963, www.paynehomestead.com , $145–165), a bed-and-breakfast run by Texas-transplant Donna Payne. Each room is dramatically decorated in a different color, including rose, coral, and azure, and a full country breakfast is served each morning.