Mini-Resorts

One of the better organized lodging options around Laguna Manialtepec [1] is Las Hamacas, at the lake’s eastern end near the Kilometer 126 marker, about 10 miles (16 km) west of Puerto Escondido [2]. The owners have gotten off to a good start in creating their version of paradise, with a mini-farm of ducks, goats, sheep, cattle and rabbits, a lakeshore palapa restaurant (entreé $3–8), kayak rentals ($20 per day), and lagoon tours.

One kilometer farther west is the sleepy little family-run pocket Eden of La Alejandria, (local cell tel. 044-954/550-2873, $10–15 RVs, $15 cabañas), which nestles along its 100 yards of lakefront, shaded by palms and great spreading trees. It’s so idyllic that the Tarzan TV series picked La Alejandria for its setting, adding a rustic lake tree house (now destroyed by hurricanes) to the already gorgeous scene. Embellishing all this is a homey restaurant/bar, screened-in from bugs, decorated with animal trophies, and reminiscent of an old-time East African safari lodge.

La Alejandria rents about six palm-shaded RV spaces with electricity and water (be prepared with your own long extension and hose) for about $10, $15 with electricity. Camping spaces also go for the same prices. They also rent some very rustic South Seas cabañas for about $15; check for mildew and see if everything is working before moving in, however.

Another kilometer west of La Alejandria is lakefront restaurant and dock Isla El Gallo (tel. 954/588-7280, 954/588-3650), perfect for a day or a week exploring the lagoon. At least stop for lunch at the restaurant, then follow up on more local options, such as snoozing in a hammock, volleyball, swimming, kayaking, and bird-watching along the mangrove-decorated shoreline, launching your own canoe or boat ($5), or hiring one of El Gallo’s boatmen to take you on a lagoon excursion from the dock.

If you decide to linger, Isla El Gallo offers 18 modern, invitingly furnished lakefront hotel rooms ($46 s or d, $50 t, $55 q). The lower rooms’ windows, unfortunately, don’t open for fresh air. Ask for one of the upper-floor rooms, with doors opening to private balconies and lake views. Tariffs include hot-water shower-baths and a/c.