Hiking in Parque Internacional La Amistad

Three main trails start from the ANAM ranger station at Parque Internacional La Amistad [1]. Sendero La Cascada is a 3.4-kilometer, two-hour round-trip hike that leads to a picture-perfect 55-meter waterfall. The trail is wide and well maintained. It’s a 1.7-kilometer uphill hike to the falls, with the elevation climbing from 2,180 to about 2,500 meters. There are three miradors (observation platforms) along the trail with sweeping views of the mountains and valleys. However, if it’s a foggy day you won’t see a thing from them.

The first mirador is unmarked, but it’s on the right as the trail levels off and comes out of the woods. Mirador La Nevera is on the left a little farther on. The trail forks at Mirador El Barranco. To get to the falls, head down the steep wooden staircase to the right. (Warning: Some of the stairs are loose and slippery. Watch your step.) Those in the mood for more exercise can take the left fork. If it’s a clear day, a two-hour hike from here offers a view of the Caribbean.

Sendero El Retoño, a two-kilometer loop trail, is much less strenuous but even more beautiful. The trail is mostly level and remarkably varied. It leads through lush green forest, over bridges spanning rushing streams, and into a tunnel formed from leaning stands of bamboo. The hike takes about an hour at a very leisurely pace.

There are a few forks along the trail: To stay on the main trail, just take every left fork. For a longer hike, there’s a loop within the loop that starts halfway down the trail at a marked fork to the right. It ends near the exit to the main trail.

A newer trail, Vereda La Montaña, leads up the side of Cerro Picacho. According to the rangers, this rustic trail (vereda is Spanish for footpath) is four kilometers long and a quite strenuous uphill trek, though there’s a wooden cabin with a kitchen and bathroom at the top. Ask the rangers about it before attempting this hike. Allow six hours for the trip up and back.

For those who just want to take a little stroll, Sendero Panamá Verde is a 400-meter walk near the ranger station that takes about 15 minutes to walk.

Do not attempt any of the longer hikes without a good guide. The forest here is rugged wilderness, and it’s very easy to get lost. Those who speak Spanish can ask the forest ranger at Las Nubes for guidance. It’s possible to camp in the park [2] or stay in a dormitory at the ANAM station.

Serious trekkers may be interested to know there’s an unmarked eight-hour hike through the forest to some hot springs, though this should not be attempted without an experienced guide. That’s one-way; you’d have to camp out by the springs.

For the truly hard-core, there’s also the possibility of multiday treks over the cordillera toward the Caribbean coast. Los Quetzales Lodge and Spa [3] may be able to help arrange an eight-day trek for those feeling brave. Be warned this is an extremely hard-core trip through mountainous wilderness and deep mud. You’ll spend the last two days traveling in cayucos (dugout canoes) through Naso territory [4].

For food and shelter you’ll mostly rely on lonely, friendly folk living in huts in the woods. Trekkers must have their own tents, sleeping bags, and all other equipment. Los Quetzales has booked this trip only once. Even the Naso (also called Teribe) who live in this forest will probably think you’re nuts.