Practicalities

There are few services of any kind in this remote, neglected part of the country. Most visitors arrange tours from Portobelo [1] or Panama City [2]. There’s a pay telephone in each town, but that’s about it. There are no banks or ATMs. The best chance of finding official help if one encounters trouble is in Palenque, the administrative headquarters of the district.

There are a few basic places to stay in this area, and as usual camping on the beach is free. This area doesn’t get many foreigners, though, so people may wonder what you’re up to. It’s probably a good idea to let the police and townspeople know you come in peace.

As always, camp only in a tent. Chitras (sand flies) are likely to be the least of your troubles. This is cattle country, which means vampire bats, and it’s poor and neglected, which means a risk of disease-carrying mosquitoes.

There is a small, open-air seaside restaurant in Miramar that offers heaps of fried seafood and other simple fare for a couple of dollars.