Madame Chang (Calle 48 near Calle Uruguay, tel. 269-1313 or 269-9654, noon–3 p.m. and 6–11 p.m. daily, US$15) is Panama’s best and most upscale Chinese restaurant. The seafood here is excellent. Try the clams in black bean sauce to start. The guabina (a mild-flavored fish) steamed in soy sauce and Chinese vegetables is light and delicious. The atmosphere is pleasantly upscale, with tile floors and peach walls and tablecloths, but it’s not particularly dressy. More recently the restaurant has taken a stab at Thai food, including salads, soups, and curries.