S’Cena (near the intersection of Avenida A and Avenida Central, tel. 228-4011, www.scenaplatea.com , noon–4 P.M. and 7–10:30 P.M. Mon.–Sat., noon–4 P.M. Sun., US$15–22) iis on the 2nd floor of an old two-story house just across the street from the ruins of the old Union Club. It’s a small place with a great location, though the view of the ocean a few steps away is severely limited. A couple of narrow French doors lead out onto a balcony; be sure to take a look.
The food is pricey and the decor is simple, but the service is friendly, and I’ve had delicious seafood here. Try the mero a la brasa con fondo de romesco (grilled grouper with romesco sauce). Note the exposed ancient wall made of bits of brick and stone. The restaurant is affiliated with the Platea Bar downstairs, which means you’ll be hearing live jazz Thursday–Saturday, like it or not.