All the aforementioned accommodations serve food, the nicest of which is found at the restaurant at Ometepetl, with meals for about $5. La Casa Familiar serves traditional Nicaraguan meals.
El Indio Viejo offers spaghetti, burritos, and other favorites, but more importantly serves a large breakfast— important if you’re off to hike a volcano. Doña Esperanza Jimenez, a half-block east of the park, serves huge, inexpensive meals as well, but not breakfast.
Los Ranchitos (four blocks up the hill from the dock, then half a block south, tel. 505/2569-4112, open 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily) is a favorite among locals and Peace Corps volunteers; its huge menu features surprisingly good pizza (large pie for only $6).
Not far behind is Yogi’s Cafe and Sports Bar (half a block south of El Indio Viejo, tel. 505/2403-6951), dishing out burgers, reggae music, and movies on a big projector screen.