In Northside, budget travelers love the Lebeha Drumming Center (www.lebeha.com , tel. 501/665-9305), which has campsites (US$5) and a couple of shared-bath stilted wooden rooms (US$15); they are very simple (ceiling fan, no hot water, mosquito net, and tea kettle). There is wireless Internet. Lebeha also has three furnished cabanas on the beach—with kitchenettes, hot showers, and porches (www.hopkinscabanas.com , US$49–65 plus tax). Ask about dive package opportunities they are forming with local providers. Yugadah Inn (yugadahinn [at] yahoo [dot] com, tel. 501/503-7089, US$15) is another budget option; there are four rooms and a common area.
Walking south from King Cassava’s, you’ll come across the eccentric, garden-choked Ransom’s Cabana (cabanabelize [at] hotmail [dot] com, US$30). A bit farther, there are two very pleasant stilted cabanas at Windschief (tel. 501/523-7249, www.windschief.com , US$25–40), right next to owner Oliver’s Internet bar and windsurfing school.
From the main junction, head south on the road (or beach), and you’ll find several decent clusters of beachside cabins, including Seagull’s Nest (tel. 501/523-7245 or 501/663-5976, jc-seagulls [at] yahoo [dot] com, US$27–33) with shared-bath doubles and nice common space, with a full kitchen, dining area, and TV. Guests can rent bikes.
Tipple Tree Beya (tel. 501/520-7006 or 501/668-3604, www.tippletree.com ) is a longtime favorite, a well-maintained spot right on the beach, with rooms from US$40 with private bath, en suite two-bedroom options US$75, or a private cabin with kitchenette US$50. There are lovely hammock-adorned porches and palapas. Half-day or full-day kayak (US$15–20) and bike (US$5–9) rentals available. Ask about inland tours or snorkeling trips.
Whistling Seas Vacation Inn (tel. 501/661-3013 or 501/662-7271, Williams_marcello [at] yahoo [dot] com) offers three private cement rooms with fridge and fan (US$49; US$54–65 with air-conditioning). Whistling Seas is classy for the neighborhood, with a restaurant and beach bar.
Laru Beya (tel. 501/523-7229 or 501/660-6908, US$50–75), meaning “on the beach” in Garifuna, is centrally located and offers one of the best deals in the area. There are four cabins with tiled floors, kitchenettes, cable TV, and air-conditioning or a two-bedroom family unit with a full kitchen and living room. The downstairs is a maze of large wood carvings and a small gift shop.
The top of the line for midrange prices is Hopkins Inn Bed & Breakfast (tel. 501/523-7283, www.hopkinsinn.com , US$59), with four fully furnished cabanas (tiled floors, screened windows, fans, hot and cold water, kitchenette) and a nice breakfast of fruits and local pastries. It’s a bargain for what you get.
You’ll also find good value at the All Seasons Guesthouse (tel. 501/523-7209, www.allseasonsbelize.com , US$43–75 includes tax and coffee, US$7 more per night if you turn on the air-conditioning). It’s not right on the beach, but it’s not far from it, and the rooms are comfortable and nicely decorated. There’s a barbecue pit to cook your own fish at the end of the day.
A short distance after the pavement of Hopkins village runs out, look for the left turn to Jungle Jeanie’s by the Sea (tel. 501/523-7047, www.junglebythesea.com , US$55–120). This is a wonderful stretch of beach for guests staying in Jeanie’s six spacious cabanas. The more secluded cabanas, located along a small network of jungle trails, have kitchenettes, private bathrooms, hot and cold showers, and verandas with a sea view; the Palmetto cabana, with three beds, is ideal for a family; and the treehouse cabana overlooks cocoplum and seagrape trees. Camping is US$15 per person. An on-site restaurant and bar serves breakfast and dinner daily (lunch available upon request), and there’s a screened “jungle palapa” for yoga, torchlight drumming ceremonies, or anything else you feel like doing.
On the northern tip of town, Hopkins Bay Resort (tel. 501/523-7320, U.S. tel. 877/467-2297, www.hopkinsbayresort.com , US$179–449) has one- and two-bedroom suites and luxury villas.