Recreation

Punta Hermosa [1] has several places to rent a board and wetsuit, get an instructor, and surf a variety of waves from gentle to suicidal. The best beginner beaches in Punta Hermosa are Caballeros, Pacharacas, and La Isla. Taxis and surfing camps can arrange transportation to beginner beaches farther south, such as Puerto Viejo and Cerro Azul.

The honest and straightforward Marco León Villarán (tel. 01/230-8316 or 01/230-8351, www.peruadventure.com [2]), who runs a bed-and-breakfast in town, can arrange a variety of fabulous adventures in the area. His main passion is spear fishing, and if you have the snorkel, fins, and mask he can lead you to just about any fish you have ever dreamed of seeing—or spearing—including 1.2-meter yellowtail or gigantic flounder near Punta Hermosa [1]. In his Zodiac with outboard motor, he also leads trips to nearby Isla Pachacamac (US$25 pp) for the rare opportunity to see Humboldt penguins, sea lions, and the occasional sea otter (known in Spanish as gato de mar because of its catlike appearance).

Marco is also a professional bone-and-fossil hunter who knows Peru’s desert coastline very well—from the fossil-rich deserts of Ica to the pristine and remote surfing beaches north of Chiclayo [3]. He owns a reliable four-wheel-drive van and is an excellent, affordable, and trustworthy option for getting into remote areas of the Ica desert.

Like all fossil hunters, Marco keeps in touch with all the local huaqeros, or grave robbers, and can even arrange an opportunity to witness their ceremonies. Before they begin digging at midnight, they read coca leaves and drink aguardiente to protect themselves from evil spirits.

He charges a US$50 daily guiding fee and then bills travelers for gas, food, and other expenses, probably another US$50 per day for a group of up to four people. He speaks Spanish only.