The village of Chivay, at 3,652 meters, lies where the main road to Arequipa [1] meets the Colca Valley [2]. It is the traditional base for exploring either the valley or the canyon, though it has become a bit touristy in recent years.
Many backpackers are now heading to Cabanaconde [3], closer to the Cruz del Cóndor [4], or to excellent new lodges near Coporaque [5] or Yanque [6].
Chivay has the best-equipped clinic (with a laboratory), and it’s the police and mountain rescue headquarters.
Chivay’s new bus station, with good bathrooms and snack shops, is a five-minute walk on the outskirts of town. Empresa de Transportes Reyna (tel. 054/53-1014), Turismo Milagros (tel. 054/53-1115), and Transportes Andalucia (tel. 054/53-1106) bus lines all have routes to Chivay for about US$7.
Once in Chivay, colectivos for the thermal baths leave when full from the main square (US$1, 15 minutes)—or a taxi costs US$1. Colectivos also leave from the main square for the Cruz del Cóndor [4] (US$25 round-trip); a private taxi for up to four people is US$30. From Chivay, colectivos also leave frequently for villages on both sides of the canyon.
Links:
[1] http://www.moon.com/destinations/peru/lake-titicaca-and-canyon-country/arequipa
[2] http://www.moon.com/destinations/peru/lake-titicaca-and-canyon-country/colca-canyon
[3] http://www.moon.com/destinations/peru/lake-titicaca-and-canyon-country/colca-canyon/cabanaconde
[4] http://www.moon.com/destinations/peru/lake-titicaca-and-canyon-country/colca-canyon/maca-cabanaconde/la-cruz-del-condor
[5] http://www.moon.com/destinations/peru/lake-titicaca-and-canyon-country/colca-canyon/coporaque
[6] http://www.moon.com/destinations/peru/lake-titicaca-and-canyon-country/colca-canyon/yanque