Península de Capachica

Six indigenous communities situated on the Península de Capachica, northeast of Puno [1] (http://turismocapachica.wordpress.com [2]), have organized themselves in tourism associations to offer the real thing: a genuine homestay experience, with no intervention of agencies, as it used to be decades ago on Taquile and Amantaní [3].

Each community offers different tourist circuits and services, totally independent of each other, some of them quite isolated without phone or Internet access, but truly well organized and ready to host travelers in comfortable lodgings, with homemade meals and an extremely hospitable and friendly crowd of villagers that will surely make this an amazing and revealing experience.

The six communities are Paramis, Chifrón, Escallani, Ccotos, Isla Tikonata, and Ccollpa.

Paramis (tel. 051/950-949-705, contact: Balbino Quispe), 67 kilometers from Puno, offers a series of activities, including the P’utin–Canjarno trek, artisan fishing, adobe brick making, farming, and bonfires, for US$1–3 each. Meals cost US$3 each and lodgings range from US$5 s to US$9 d.

Chifrón offers three different experiences: Flor de Lago and Casa Rural Inti Wasi (tel. 051/950-936-611, contact: Walther Pancca Páucar, titikakaintiwasi [at] hotmail [dot] com), and Playa Chifró (tel. 051/951-919-652, contact: Emiliano Pacompia). They all offer similar activities, ranging US$2–9, such as walking the Centilinayok circuit, with spectacular views of the lake, boat rides around Isañata island, storytelling of local myths and legends, and a ceremony to Pachamama, among other things. Meals cost US$3–4 each, and lodgings are US$5–12 s, US$11–23 d.

Escallani is the northernmost and remote community, grouped in Munay Suyo (contact: Rufino Paucar Pacompia), without phone or Internet access. This is probably the most interesting village; you could go and try your luck just dropping by and staying there for a night or two. You can join families to sail in the lake in traditional boats through the tótora wetlands where a wide variety of birds can be observed. Circuits to Apu Wiracochani or Kawayojapina cost US$4–7. Meals are US$3–5 and lodging US$5 pp.

On the eastern side of the peninsula, Ccotos also has two groups: Inca Samana (tel. 051/951-856-462, contact: Alfonso Quispe Acuña, incasamanatours [at] yahoo [dot] es) and Posada Ccotos (tel. 051/951-620-826, contact: Santos Ramos, korythica [at] yahoo [dot] es). This community offers walks, fishing and sailing in the lake, and the experience of milking cows or farming. Rates are US$1–3. Typical foods are served for US$3–5 each meal, and quite comfortable lodgings are US$5 s, US$10 d.

Isla Tikonata (tel. 051/951-664-881, contact: Marino Humpiri Charca) is an island off the coast of Ccotos and northwest of Amantaní [3]. You can sail around the island, fish, and even shear sheep or participate in the building of a house. These activities cost US$2–4 each. Food is about US$4 each meal and lodgings US$5 pp. The transportation from the peninsula to the island costs US$3.

Ccollpa is down south of the peninsula and has two groups hosting travelers: San Pedro Ccollpa (tel. 051/951-637-382, contact: Richard Cahui Flores, ccollpallachon [at] hotmail [dot] com) and Pacha Ccollpa (tel. 051/951-311-622, contact: Dorca Cahui Padillo) offer artisan fishing, learning to dye wool, and sailing in the lake. Rates are US$1–5. Food is served for US$2.50–5 per meal, and lodgings cost US$6 s and US$12 d.