Fine Dining

At the ambitious MAP Café (Plaza Nazarenas 231, tel. 084/24-2476, www.cuscorestaurants.com [1], mapcafe [at] cuscorestaurants [dot] com, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, US$16–24) dinner guests sit in a perfectly proportioned glass box, reminiscent of architect Philip Johnson’s glass house, which seemingly floats in the stone courtyard of the Museo de Arte Precolombino [2]. The food is a gourmet and sophisticated interpretation of traditional Andean cuisine.

The glazed and deep fried cuy legs on a choclo foam with tarwi salad is a tasty and less confronting way to try guinea pig. A favorite dish on the menu is the capchi de setas, a mouthwatering creamy mushroom, potato, and broad bean casserole topped with a buttery pastry.

The desserts are some of the most creative and delectable in Cusco. The specialty is hot truffle balls with aguaymanto and pisco, served with vanilla ice cream and a surprise shot. If you’re up for a full three-course meal then the US$50 menu is worth it.

Cicciolina (Triunfo 393, 2nd Fl., tel. 084/23-9510, cicciolinacuzco [at] yahoo [dot] com, 8–11:30 a.m., 12:30–4 p.m., and 6–11 p.m. daily, US$12–15) is the most happening restaurant in town, popular with tourists and locals alike. A casual lunch here might be a sandwich, salad, and smoothie or their daily menu, but dinner should be taken in the deep red dining room.

There, you can truly enjoy the cracked black pepper tagliatelli or grilled scallops in an oriental sauce over your choice of a glass of Peruvian, Argentine, Chilean, French, or Italian wine. For something sweet try the strawberries and port. If you leave satisfied, come back the following morning for breakfast and delicious croissants at the Cicciolina bakery. They also provide a picnic catering service, anywhere you wish, with tables, tablecloths, waiters, and all the trimmings.

For an evening meal with an entertaining operatic twist, Divina Comedia (Pumacurco 406, tel. 084/43-7640, info [at] restaurantcusco [dot] com, 11:30–3 p.m., 6:30–11 p.m. Wed.–Mon., US$12–15) is a lot of fun. The Divine Comedy theme, medieval-influenced decor, and waiters dressed in period clothing are a fitting backdrop to the talented opera singers who entertain you while you dine. The beautifully presented modern and traditional dishes taste as good as they look.

For an all-around great dining experience, the best fusion restaurant in Cusco [3] is Limo (Portal de Carnes 236, 2nd Fl., tel. 084/24-0668, www.cuscorestaurants.com [1], 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6 p.m.–midnight daily, US$12–15). Rafael Casabonne’s latest project is a tastefully decorated restaurant with a great view over the Plaza de Armas [4]. The service is excellent but most importantly the food is superb.

Start the evening with a plate of experimental Peruvian-influenced sushi rolls; the ceviche roll and the tuna rolls can hold their own anywhere in the world. The tiraditos and ceviches, especially the ceviche oriental, are delicious. As a main, the crab meat and breaded shrimp bathed in leche de tigre is a winner.