Crafts shops are wall-to-wall along Triunfo, which leads from the Plaza de Armas  and becomes Rumiyoc and Cuesta San Blas before dead-ending into Plazoleta San Blas , the center of Cusco ’s bohemian/art district. Several families who have been producing crafts for decades have their workshops here and can often be seen at work.
The family workshop Artesania Mendivil (Plazoleta San Blas 634, 9 a.m.–6 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) is known worldwide for its religious sculptures with long mannerist necks made of plaster cloth, rice paste, and wood. Hilario Mendivil began working as a craftsman at the age of 10 in 1939; though he has passed away, his sons continue the tradition.
World-acclaimed ceramicist Pablo Seminario, whose studio is in Urubamba , has a showroom on the Plaza de Armas . At Seminario (Portal de Carnes 244, tel. 084/24-6093, www.ceramicaseminario.com , 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 5–9 p.m. Sun.) there are colonial-style ceramics all designed according to Pablo’s unique style.
Another great association run by the altruistic Franco Negri is Casa Ecológica (Portal de Carnes 236, interior 2, tel. 084/25-5427, www.casaecologicacusco.com , 9 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily), which was created to promote sustainable development in rural communities. The shop sells traditional handicrafts produced with natural fibers as well as organic cosmetics and food products.
Another shop whose revenue goes directly to the artists from the communities surrounding Cusco  is Chaska Handicrafts (Garcilaso 265-1, tel. 084/23-5407, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat.). Just down the road is Agua y Tierra (Garcilaso 210, tel. 084/22-6951, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat.), which sells all kinds of jungle handicrafts.
For mainstream touristy products there are crafts markets in Cusco where bargaining is standard procedure. One is right on the Plaza de Armas next to Iglesia de la Compañía  (10:30 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3:30–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 4–9 p.m. Sun.). A 10-minute walk down Avenida El Sol takes you past many more markets, but the biggest is Centro Artesanal Cusco (El Sol and Tullumayo, 8 a.m.–10 p.m. daily).
For the finest alpaca clothing, head to Kuna, which has shops all over Cusco. The most central is on the Plaza de Armas  (Portal de Panes 127, tel. 084/24-3191, www.kuna.com.pe , 9 a.m.–10 p.m. daily). Another reliable option is Sol Alpaca (Plaza Nazarenas 167, tel. 084/23-2687, www.solalpaca.com , 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat.). For up-market, expensive llama products, including leather, Casa de la Llama(Palacio 121, tel. 084/24-0813, 9 a.m.–10 p.m.daily) is good.
Werner & Ana (Plaza San Francisco 295-A, tel. 084/23-1076, www.werner  ana.com, 9:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) is a hip clothing boutique with styles in alpaca and other fine materials.
Hilo (Carmen Alto 260, tel. 084/25-4536, 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and 2–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) is a funky little shop with original clothes handmade by self-taught Irish designer Eibhlin Cassidy. Browse through her unique collection of dresses, blouses, and belts while sipping on a cup of tea. For other young new Peruvian designer clothes and jewelry pop into Pulga (Carmen Alto 227), Maracuya (Tecsecocha 424), or Claudia Lira (Choquechaca 162).
There are exclusive jewelry shops all around the Plaza de Armas and up Cuesta San Blas; they mostly sell works of silver. The most well-known and found everywhere is Ilaria (Portal Carrizos 258, tel. 084/24-6253, www.ilariainternational.com ).
Contemporary art can be found in several shops along Triunfo, between the Plaza de Armas  and San Blas . Primitiva (Hatun Rumiyoc 495, tel. 084/26-0152, www.coscio.com , 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) features the art of Argentine painter Federico Coscio, who captures the landscapes and people around Cusco .
If you are looking for something a little different, Indigo (Santa Teresa 317, www.galeriasindigo.com.pe , 9 a.m.–10 p.m. daily) has modern housewares and handicrafts inspired by traditional Andean designs.
There is nothing quite like Pedazo de Arte (Plateros 334-B, tel. 084/24-2967, 9 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily), a cute shop owned by Japanese artist Miki Suzuki, with unique miniature Peruvian handicrafts.
SBS Bookshop (Av. El Sol 781-A, tel. 084/24-8106, www.sbs.com.pe , 8:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m. and 3:30–7:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–1 p.m. Sat.) is Peru’s foremost importer of English books and has a good collection at its small Cusco  shop.
With choices in English, French, German, Portuguese, Spanish, and Quechua, you’d be hard pressed not to find a book at CBC La Familia (Tullumayo 465, tel. 084/23-4073, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. and 4–8 p.m. Mon.–Sat.). Genres include novels, cookbooks, art, and even photography.
The largest book exchange in Cusco can be found at Libreria Puro Peru (Heladeros 167, tel. 084/22-1753, librarypuroperu [at] hotmail [dot] com, 9 a.m.–10 p.m. daily).
If you are nostalgic for a magazine from home you may find it at Febav Bookstore (El Sol 106, Galeria La Merced, Stand 109, tel. 084/23-6967).
Director Kike Pinto has collected more than 400 instruments for the Taki Andean Music Museum (Hatunrumiyoq 487-5, interior, tel. 084/22-6897, www.takimuseum.org , pinto.kike [at] gmail [dot] com, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon.–Sat.), some of which are for sale, along with CDs, books, and music lessons.
The best shops for getting high-end outdoor apparel and equipment, although expensive, are Tatoo (Triunfo 346, tel. 084/22-4797, 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 2–9 p.m. Sun.), Cordillera (Garcilaso 210 shop 102, tel. 084/24-4133, 9 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily), and The North Face (Plazoleta Espinar 188, tel. 084/23-2130, 9 a.m.–9 p.m. daily).