Just north of Quetzaltenango [1] and the Cuatro Caminos Junction, San Francisco El Alto is the site of the country’s largest market, an extremely authentic affair that takes place on Fridays. It is not at all a tourist market like the Chichicastenango Market [2] and you’d be hard-pressed to find touristy handicrafts and típica here. But, if you’re in the mood to see an authentic Indian market, this is certainly the place.
An added bonus is the wonderful view of Xela from here, thanks to a splendid hilltop location overlooking the larger city. The best views are from the top of the town’s church. The caretaker should let you up there.
Links:
[1] http://www.moon.com/destinations/guatemala/the-western-highlands/quetzaltenango
[2] http://www.moon.com/destinations/guatemala/the-western-highlands/chichicastenango/sights/chichicastenango-market