Most of Todos Santos ’s accommodations can be found in a cluster up the hill about a block from the plaza. Only a few have phones to contact for reservations.
A virtual Todos Santos institution, Hotel Casa Familiar (tel. 7783-0656, $6 p/p to $25 d) is a longtime favorite with travelers. Run by a local family, it was being remodeled at last visit to provide upgraded accommodations for visitors. The new rooms will have private bathrooms. The pleasant garden dining area was also being remodeled. You can arrange guided hikes from here as well as reading lessons. Movies are shown daily at 4 p.m.
Another good choice is Hotelito Todos Santos ($12–13 d) with basic tiled-floor rooms with shared or private hot-water bathroom. There’s a basic café in the lobby.
Next door is the bare-bones Hotel Mam ($3.50 p/p).
Turning right up the hill at the end of this same street, you’ll find Hospedaje El Viajero (tel. 7783-0705 or 5754-9760, $4 p/p), featuring rooms with bare concrete-block walls, hard beds, and little else, though there’s a small terrace fronting some of them. All rooms share baths.
There are a few decent places for food along the main street heading out from the plaza toward the main road and Huehuetenango. Among these is Restaurante Cuchumatlán, serving pizzas ($8 for a large pie), curry dishes, and fruit smoothies. It also has a book exchange.
The patio dining area at Casa Familiar (tel. 7783-0656, $2–4) is the best place in town to grab a bite to eat.