Sights and Recreation

Many of the park’s attractions are within walking distance of San Juan Bautista [1], though often only via a rugged hike. Its signature excursion is the Mirador de Selkirk [2], on a scenic trail that continues to Bahía Tierras Blancas [3] (site of a large fur seal colony) and the airstrip where flights from the mainland arrive.

At the south end of San Juan, swimmers dive off the rocks at El Palillo, where Conaf has a wooded 15-site picnic ground (no camping, though) with fire pits and trash collection; this is also the officially designated site of the only submarine sector of the Sendero de Chile (accessible only to divers). From El Palillo, a trail switchbacks up the hillside before leveling out and joining the road to Hostería Pangal.

At the foot of the island’s highest peak, Plazoleta El Yunque is a shorter, easier hike than Selkirk’s lookout. Beginning at the village power plant and gaining only 257 meters in three kilometers, the road becomes a footpath that leads to this placid forest clearing where Hugo Weber, who escaped the Dresden’s sinking, built a house whose foundations still survive. Conaf maintains a picnic area here, where one night’s camping is permitted.

From Plazoleta El Yunque, Conaf permission and a guide are necessary to ascend the steep rugged route to El Camote, a saddle with views to equal or surpass those of Selkirk’s lookout, particularly the sight of El Verdugo, a sheer volcanic needle that rises 157 meters out of the sea. The climb to El Camote, through thick native forest, requires as much or more arm strength than hiking ability, as it often requires pulling yourself up by tree limbs. Cerro El Yunque itself, a 915-meter pinnacle, is not unattainable, but it’s not for dilettantes either; a Conaf-approved local guide is imperative.

Only a short shot north of San Juan Bautista by launch, Puerto Inglés is the site of Selkirk’s replica shelter; camping is possible here. For nonhikers, the launch to Puerto Inglés costs about US$11 per person for a minimum five persons; in rough seas, the landing is tricky and the rocks are slippery.

Puerto Inglés is about two hours away starting at the zigzag Sendero Salsipuedes, which climbs from the west end of Calle La Pólvora; passing through nonnative forest of acacia, eucalyptus, Monterey cypress, and Monterey pine, the newly rerouted trail to the Salsipuedes ridge provides some of the best village and harbor views. Beyond the ridge, though, the descent to Puerto Inglés requires a local guide.

On a small inlet on Crusoe’s north shore, Puerto Vaquería features a small fur seal colony and a Conaf refugio. The landing is equally if not more awkward than that at Puerto Inglés. Camping is possible, a local guide obligatory.

On Robinson Crusoe’s eastern shore, about half an hour by launch from San Juan Bautista, Puerto Francés is a desert area where the presence of French pirates led Spain to build a now-ruined set of ramparts overlooking the sea. From the Conaf refugio here, a trail climbs the Quebrada Los Picos through gradually thickening forest to Cerro La Piña; a longer trail connects Quebrada Los Picos with Pangal (local guide obligatory).

Rarely visited except by lobsterers, Conaf’s seasonal ranger, and the odd cruise ship, Isla Marinero Alejandro Selkirk (ex-Isla Masafuera) must be one of the earth’s loneliest places—even more so, in Selkirk’s time, than Masatierra (Selkirk, ironically, had no connection whatsoever with the island that now bears his name). Lobsterers from San Juan Bautista will carry passengers on their own trips for about US$60 per person round-trip, but landings are difficult and the trip can take longer than anticipated. Special excursions are much more expensive.