Backpackers should note that no campfires are permitted within the park—campstoves are obligatory. According to rangers, the water is potable.
The only accommodations near the glacier, multiday packages with full board and excursions are the rule at the lavish Hostería Los Notros (tel. 02902/499510 in El Calafate, US$215/293–377/514 s/d), which rivals Torres del Paine ’s Hotel Explora in the “room-with-a-view” category; all 32 rooms face the ice. For details, contact Hostería Los Notros (Arenales 1457, 7th floor, Buenos Aires, tel. 011/4814-3934, www.losnotros.com ).
Also at the glacier, the Unidad Turística Ventisquero Moreno operates a snack bar (sandwiches for US$3–4, plus coffee and desserts) and a separate restaurant with meals for US$8–12, plus an à la carte menu. A couple kilometers east of the park entrance, highly recommended by Calafate-based guides, Los Ventisqueros serves a limited lunchtime menu of pasta, chicken, lamb, or beef.
La Jerónima’s Camping Lago Roca (tel. 02902/499500, lagoroca [at] yahoo [dot] com [dot] ar) charges US$3 per adult, US$1 for children, and also has four-bed cabañas for US$40. Hot showers are available, and its restaurant/confitería serves meals.
At the terminus of Ruta Provincial 15, 56 kilometers southwest of El Calafate , the casco at Croatian-founded Estancia Nibepo Aike (Perito Moreno 229, Río Gallegos, tel./fax 02966/436010, www.nibepoaike.com.ar , US$100/130 s/d with half board, minimum two-night stay) preserves its rustic style but is now a five-room guesthouse with contemporary conveniences—all rooms have private baths, for instance. Open October–April, it also has a newer Quincho Don Juan for day-trippers to lunch or dine; overnight guests may choose to eat in the restaurant rather than the main house’s dining room. “Day-in-the country” excursions from El Calafate cost US$30 per person.