Paine Circuit

More than two decades ago, under a military dictatorship, Chile attracted few foreign visitors, and hiking in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine [1] was a solitary experience—on a 10-day trek over the now famous circuit, the author met only three other hikers, two Americans and a Chilean.

Parts of the route through this one-time estancia were easy-to-follow stock trails, while others, on Lago Grey’s eastern shore and into the valley of the Río de los Perros, were barely boot-width tracks on steep slopes, or involved scrambling over granite boulders and fording waist-deep streams. Since then, raging rivers have destroyed bridges at the outlets of Lago Nordenskjöld and Lago Paine, and the original trailhead on Lago Pehoé’s north shore no longer exists.

Meanwhile, completion of a trail along Lago Nordenskjöld’s north shore has created a new loop and simultaneously provided access to the south side of the Torres del Paine [2], offering easier access up the Río Ascencio and Valle del Francés on the shorter “W” route [3] to Lago Pehoé. Where the former circuit crossed the Río Paine and continued along its north bank to the Laguna Azul campground, the new circuit now follows the west bank south to Laguna Amarga. A Laguna Azul exit or entrance is still feasible, though, by crossing the Río Paine by a cable raft at the Lago Dickson outlet, with help from the staff at Refugio Dickson.

Trail maintenance and development have improved, rudimentary and not-so-rudimentary bridges have replaced fallen logs and traversed stream fords, and comfortable refugios and organized campgrounds have supplanted the lean-tos and puestos (outside houses) that once sheltered shepherds on their rounds. Though it’s theoretically possible to hike most of the circuit without a tent or even a sleeping bag, showering and eating at the refugios, hikers must not forget that this is rugged country with unpredictable weather.

Most hikers tackle the circuit counterclockwise from Guardería Laguna Amarga, where buses from Puerto Natales [4] stop for passengers to pay the park admission fee. An alternative is to continue to Pudeto and take a passenger launch to Refugio Pehoé, or else to the park’s Administración (involving a longer and less interesting approach); both of these mean doing the trek clockwise.

At least a week is desirable for the circuit; before beginning, registration with park rangers is obligatory. Camping is permitted only at designated sites, a few of which are free. Purchase supplies in Puerto Natales [4]; only limited goods, at premium prices, are available in the park.